Current Position: 28 47.476’S 32 04.958’E; Timezone: UTC+2; SOG: 0; COG: N/A; TWS: ?; TWD: ?; Distance to Waypoint (Richards Bay): in a slip at ZYC; Total Miles Sailed: 15574 nm; Engine Hours: 314; Estimate Fuel: 11 +13+50;
Comments: I got settled into the ZYC. There is a chandlery and restaurant on site, but not much else. There are not even any grocery stores nearby. I am told most people use taxis, but CA ar rentals are cheap, about $150/week, so I am going to get one tomorrow. I traced the wire to the white running light in the stern. It indeed runs through the SS tubing of the stern pulpit, then through the hull into the propane locker, through a bulkhead into the starboard lazarette, and finally out of the lazarette into the engine room where it connects to the circuit breaker. Each of the transitions are sealed with caulking. The wiring is Ancor 16ga, so it seems very unlikely to me that it is broken. There is no sign that the insulation has worn through. I believe when the ensign flag pole broke off it left a hole in the top of the tubing. Since the bottom of the tubing is sealed with caulking, the tube is probably full of sea water. The wiring is not designed to be continuously submerged. Pulling new wire may be a serious hassle and I need ti know for certain which of the wires is shorted, so I am going to split the wires are the circuit breaker and isolate the two circuits. I disconnected the stern circuit and connected the bow circuit and the bow running lights did not come on! I once again confirmed I had 12V at the circuit breaker. The only explanation I have is there is a break in the bow wire. The most obvious explanation is a bad LED lamp, but either both lamps are bad or the wiring is in series. To confirm how the lamps are wired, I went to the anchorage locker. A single wire runs through the locker into the stanchion to the starboard side. It is highly unlikely the wires double back in the bow pulpit to form a parallel circuit, so I assume the lights are run in series. For both lamps to be out, they either both need to be burned out (less likely) or the starboard one is burned out. Accordingly, I started by taking the starboard housing apart. The lamp connectors were corroded. Some moisture had found its way into the housing. I cleaned up the terminals and checked the voltage. Only 1.5V! It is impossible that both the bow and stern wires are broken or shorted. The only thing I can think of is the current is low and there is a voltage drop. This would make sense because the longer bow wire is 1.5 V and the shorter stern is 4.5V. There has to be resistance causing the voltage drop. I shorted out the stern light fitting and removed both leads of the wire from the circuit panel and discovered the loop has 6 M ohm resistance. There has to be a break in the insulation and corrosion. It seems less likely that both wires are equally compromised (since they have separate insulation), so I ran a separate wire to the light fitting and tested each wire separately. As expected, it is the positive wire that shows the resistance (has been subjected to galvanic corrosion). The damaged wire needs to be replaced. I am going to start by cutting the wire in the propane locker to learn if I have 12V there. There was a junction for the wire in the propane locker and when I removed the heat-shrink it was obvious the positive connection was corroded. Believing I had found the problem, I cut the wire and measured 12V to the circuit breaker panel. I measured the resistance of a loop in the direction of the lamp (after shorting it out) and found it to be low, so I spliced a piece of new wire in the line after cutting out the defective part and the lamp worked. Now I moved to the bow. I shorted out the starboard running light on the bow and found that loop also has 6 M ohm resistance. I assume the problem is between the circuit breaker panel and the starboard light fixture. The wire runs from the light fixture, through the tubing of the bow pulpit, through the wood toe rail, through a deck fitting and into the chain locker before continuing to the back of the boat. The problem was obvious now. There was a knick in the insulation where the wire was exposed on the deck and it was corroded. I tried to cut away the defective part, put it went all the way into the toe rail. I was going to have to pull new wire. I cut away the light fixture and contemplated what would be easier, pulling it to or away from the light fixture. I decided it was a two person job to feed the wire, so waited for help. With help, I was able to pull new wire. I am going to pull the wire into the chain locker but not further because the wire is actually epoxied into the floor of the chain locker. I will splice it towards the top of the locker. I may even be able to do that from the deck (so I don’t need to crawl in the locker). While I tried that, I had to pull hard to get the spliced wire through the deck. When J finished I did not have power at the lmo end, but I made a mistake by not measure the voltage of the wire before I spliced its. Now I don’t know off I pulled the splice apart or if there is another break between the splice and the circuit breaker panel. Will have to take it apart and start over, this time in the anchor locker, which won’t be fun. The plan for tomorrow is to finish the running lights and disassemble the gooseneck/boom so I can design a part to fix it.
Comments: I got settled into the ZYC. There is a chandlery and restaurant on site, but not much else. There are not even any grocery stores nearby. I am told most people use taxis, but CA ar rentals are cheap, about $150/week, so I am going to get one tomorrow. I traced the wire to the white running light in the stern. It indeed runs through the SS tubing of the stern pulpit, then through the hull into the propane locker, through a bulkhead into the starboard lazarette, and finally out of the lazarette into the engine room where it connects to the circuit breaker. Each of the transitions are sealed with caulking. The wiring is Ancor 16ga, so it seems very unlikely to me that it is broken. There is no sign that the insulation has worn through. I believe when the ensign flag pole broke off it left a hole in the top of the tubing. Since the bottom of the tubing is sealed with caulking, the tube is probably full of sea water. The wiring is not designed to be continuously submerged. Pulling new wire may be a serious hassle and I need ti know for certain which of the wires is shorted, so I am going to split the wires are the circuit breaker and isolate the two circuits. I disconnected the stern circuit and connected the bow circuit and the bow running lights did not come on! I once again confirmed I had 12V at the circuit breaker. The only explanation I have is there is a break in the bow wire. The most obvious explanation is a bad LED lamp, but either both lamps are bad or the wiring is in series. To confirm how the lamps are wired, I went to the anchorage locker. A single wire runs through the locker into the stanchion to the starboard side. It is highly unlikely the wires double back in the bow pulpit to form a parallel circuit, so I assume the lights are run in series. For both lamps to be out, they either both need to be burned out (less likely) or the starboard one is burned out. Accordingly, I started by taking the starboard housing apart. The lamp connectors were corroded. Some moisture had found its way into the housing. I cleaned up the terminals and checked the voltage. Only 1.5V! It is impossible that both the bow and stern wires are broken or shorted. The only thing I can think of is the current is low and there is a voltage drop. This would make sense because the longer bow wire is 1.5 V and the shorter stern is 4.5V. There has to be resistance causing the voltage drop. I shorted out the stern light fitting and removed both leads of the wire from the circuit panel and discovered the loop has 6 M ohm resistance. There has to be a break in the insulation and corrosion. It seems less likely that both wires are equally compromised (since they have separate insulation), so I ran a separate wire to the light fitting and tested each wire separately. As expected, it is the positive wire that shows the resistance (has been subjected to galvanic corrosion). The damaged wire needs to be replaced. I am going to start by cutting the wire in the propane locker to learn if I have 12V there. There was a junction for the wire in the propane locker and when I removed the heat-shrink it was obvious the positive connection was corroded. Believing I had found the problem, I cut the wire and measured 12V to the circuit breaker panel. I measured the resistance of a loop in the direction of the lamp (after shorting it out) and found it to be low, so I spliced a piece of new wire in the line after cutting out the defective part and the lamp worked. Now I moved to the bow. I shorted out the starboard running light on the bow and found that loop also has 6 M ohm resistance. I assume the problem is between the circuit breaker panel and the starboard light fixture. The wire runs from the light fixture, through the tubing of the bow pulpit, through the wood toe rail, through a deck fitting and into the chain locker before continuing to the back of the boat. The problem was obvious now. There was a knick in the insulation where the wire was exposed on the deck and it was corroded. I tried to cut away the defective part, put it went all the way into the toe rail. I was going to have to pull new wire. I cut away the light fixture and contemplated what would be easier, pulling it to or away from the light fixture. I decided it was a two person job to feed the wire, so waited for help. With help, I was able to pull new wire. I am going to pull the wire into the chain locker but not further because the wire is actually epoxied into the floor of the chain locker. I will splice it towards the top of the locker. I may even be able to do that from the deck (so I don’t need to crawl in the locker). While I tried that, I had to pull hard to get the spliced wire through the deck. When J finished I did not have power at the lmo end, but I made a mistake by not measure the voltage of the wire before I spliced its. Now I don’t know off I pulled the splice apart or if there is another break between the splice and the circuit breaker panel. Will have to take it apart and start over, this time in the anchor locker, which won’t be fun. The plan for tomorrow is to finish the running lights and disassemble the gooseneck/boom so I can design a part to fix it.
