Ashmore Reef

The Territory of Ashmore and Cartier Islands is an uninhabited Australian external territory consisting of four low-lying tropical islands in two separate reefs (Ashmore and Cartier), as well as the 12-nautical-mile territorial sea generated by the islands. The territory is located in the Indian Ocean situated on the edge of the continental shelf, about 200 nm off the northwest coast of Australia and 80 nm south of the Indonesian island of Rote. I arrived here about a week ago following a passage from Darwin. It is my last day in this magical place. I am leaving for Christmas Island in the morning. Ashmore Reef is a natural reserve, and access to only one of the two lagoons and one of the three islands is permitted.

Ashmore Reef is called Pulau Pasir by Indonesians and Nusa Solokaek in the Rotenese language. Both names have the meaning “sand island”. At low tide, the West Island becomes a semi-circular sandbar.

Beautiful patterns are left in the sand as the water recedes.

A shipwreck was also exposed by the low tide. It still had an engine, which now was little more than a large block of rust.

For a seemingly barren island, West Island is teeming with life. The sounds of the birds is almost deafening. The birds must not get many visitors as they seem immensely curious, circling me as I wade to the island. At times, they look like they want to land on my shoulders.  

Ashmore Reef is a crucial sanctuary for numerous bird species, supporting over 100,000 nesting seabirds and hosting significant numbers of migratory shorebirds. Key breeding seabirds include Brown Noddies, Sooty Terns, Great Crested Terns, Masked Boobies, and Lesser Frigatebirds, while important migratory species found there include Greater Sand-Plovers, Bar-tailed Godwits, and Curlew Sandpipers. The reef also attracts various landbird visitors and smaller numbers of landbirds like the Pacific Reef-Heron and Little Egret. I saw most of these species while visiting the island. Here is a Brown Noddy and her chick.

The other remarkable occupant of West Island are the Loggerhead Turles.

There were dozens of nests on the island that the turtles would return to at night.

Where the Sea of Cortez Meets the Pacific Ocean

I arrived at Los Frailes yesterday evening just before dusk after a wonderful sail from Ensenada de Los Muertos. I averaged 6.2 kt with just the Yankee jib flying in 25-30 kt winds from the north. The following seas were big, driven by the fetch of the entire Sea of Cortez. There was something different about the sea conditions. The waves were steep and the intervals short, as is often found in the SOC, but I could see the water transforming as I approached Los Frailes … becoming more Pacific-like.

I rode the last of the wind into Frailies. The wind will be very light, variable for the next few days. That will help calm the seas down a bit. It looks like my weather window for sailing to San Beneticto is Monday, although it may be necessary to motor for half a day to get out of the shadow of the Cape. San Benedicto is about 300 miles south, about the same distance I have sailed the past week from San Carlos to here. The main issue is the traffic as I must sail across a major shipping lane, so I welcome the opportunity to rest the next couple of days. The break will also give me a chance to service the engine, clean the hull (while testing my new Hookah diving system), and go ashore to do some hiking (and test my new outboard engine).

Hike Above Playa el Burro

I took a hike above Playa el Burro in Bahia de Concepcioñ. The bay is massive and includes many islands.

I am currently anchored off of Playa el Burro. Aegir-Ran is the furthest boat in this frame.

The hike was vigorous and although it is January, was nonetheless hot. The trail, if you want to call it that, initially follows a dry creek bed that is lined with ancient Amerindian petroglyphs.

Hike to Elefante de Trompa Grande

While anchored in Bahia San Padro and waiting for a weather window to head south, I noticed a rock arch in the hills above the bay (circled in red).

Asking the locals, I am told it is called “Big Trunk Elephant” (“Elefante de Trompa Grande”). It took about two hours to hike to the arch, first through washes to the base and then bushwhacking to the arch itself. Once there, I discovered the rock to be loose and dangerous to climb. Also, it appeared that rock climbing would be needed to actually get to the hole. Perhaps the backside would be more accessible.