Perhaps the most incredible thing about being in the middle of the ocean is you have a horizon that is 360 degrees.
Check-in April 6, 2025; 16:38 (Local)
Current Position: 8 44.205’N 127 57.310’W; Course: 195; SOG: 6.0 kt; TWS: 18.8 kt; TWD: 050; TWA: 138; Distance to Waypoint (Hiva Oa): 1294 nm; Total Miles Sailed: 2012 nm;
Comments: I left the sails as they were (most of the Yankee and one reef in the main) overnight because the wind/waves were supposed to be similar overnight as they were in the afternoon. But, I had second thoughts as the waves built a bit and there were a few gusts that gave the TillerPilot a fit. Rather than trying to put another reef in the main on a pitching deck, I decided to let it play out, figuring I could mistrim the sails if I had to. It turned out it was fine and the night was uneventful. I set the usual two hour alarms (rather than one hour intervals when I have shipping traffic or unstable weather). Between the 5:00 alarm and 7:00 when I woke up, the wind backed to the north 10 degrees (has been backing to the north in the morning and veering to the east in the evening), so sailing efficiency was reduced. I changed the course to 180 from 185 and corrected. There are more clouds today than yesterday, but it should still be a good day for solar. Waves seem to be in a shorter interval, but the seas are relatively calm. I have been following the ECMWF weather model, which I have found to be most accurate offshore. That model shows the wind veering to easterlies as I approach the ITCZ and has me jibing west for a day tomorrow before returning to a southerly course. Below about 3 degrees north, the course would be essentially straight at the Marquesas (about 204). However, I have found the weather in the ITCZ to be very unstable, so I expect the plan will change a half dozen times. My 9:00 check showed I made (1478-1343) 132 nm on in the last 24h, about the same as yesterday. About 10:00, stronger 26-28 kt gusts developed with 20 kt continuous wind. The gusts caused the boat to round up. While the course was set for 185, it the gusts exceeded 165, the boat would gain speed to 7.5 kt and lock into a beam reach. The TillerPilot did not have the physical range or strength to bring the boat back to course. It helped to change the course closer to a run, but the headsail would flag with the waves and I ran the risk of an accidental jib. Ironically, the wind vane does a better job because it has more of a range, and it had no problem keeping the boat on course during the strong gusts. But, I could see the port control line was only hanging on by a few core strands. Turns out, there was enough of the 1/4” Spectra line that I could cut away the frayed part. Unfortunately, the frayed part was on the end near the servo rudder. I contemplated stopping the boat to work on the wind vane, then decided it would be better to have it under control while sailing. The control line was held in place by a simple stopper/slip knot, so I tied myself off the back of the boat so I could get hold of the line and pull enough through to cut off the offending part. It was actually easier than it sounds and probably took ten minutes. The wind vane is good as new. Next chance I get, I buying 50’ of 1/4” Spectra because I don’t have any onboard. The ocean became angry in the early afternoon. I fixed half the fish I caught yesterday, but it was a challenge to cook. Also, it is becoming warm in the cabin during the day because I am approaching the equator, and cooking just makes warmer. I prefer to sit in the cockpit, even if it means getting splashed from time to time. By mid-afternoon, the seas had calmed down, but clouds had moved in. The winds are becoming more easterly as I go south.
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Comments: I left the sails as they were (most of the Yankee and one reef in the main) overnight because the wind/waves were supposed to be similar overnight as they were in the afternoon. But, I had second thoughts as the waves built a bit and there were a few gusts that gave the TillerPilot a fit. Rather than trying to put another reef in the main on a pitching deck, I decided to let it play out, figuring I could mistrim the sails if I had to. It turned out it was fine and the night was uneventful. I set the usual two hour alarms (rather than one hour intervals when I have shipping traffic or unstable weather). Between the 5:00 alarm and 7:00 when I woke up, the wind backed to the north 10 degrees (has been backing to the north in the morning and veering to the east in the evening), so sailing efficiency was reduced. I changed the course to 180 from 185 and corrected. There are more clouds today than yesterday, but it should still be a good day for solar. Waves seem to be in a shorter interval, but the seas are relatively calm. I have been following the ECMWF weather model, which I have found to be most accurate offshore. That model shows the wind veering to easterlies as I approach the ITCZ and has me jibing west for a day tomorrow before returning to a southerly course. Below about 3 degrees north, the course would be essentially straight at the Marquesas (about 204). However, I have found the weather in the ITCZ to be very unstable, so I expect the plan will change a half dozen times. My 9:00 check showed I made (1478-1343) 132 nm on in the last 24h, about the same as yesterday. About 10:00, stronger 26-28 kt gusts developed with 20 kt continuous wind. The gusts caused the boat to round up. While the course was set for 185, it the gusts exceeded 165, the boat would gain speed to 7.5 kt and lock into a beam reach. The TillerPilot did not have the physical range or strength to bring the boat back to course. It helped to change the course closer to a run, but the headsail would flag with the waves and I ran the risk of an accidental jib. Ironically, the wind vane does a better job because it has more of a range, and it had no problem keeping the boat on course during the strong gusts. But, I could see the port control line was only hanging on by a few core strands. Turns out, there was enough of the 1/4” Spectra line that I could cut away the frayed part. Unfortunately, the frayed part was on the end near the servo rudder. I contemplated stopping the boat to work on the wind vane, then decided it would be better to have it under control while sailing. The control line was held in place by a simple stopper/slip knot, so I tied myself off the back of the boat so I could get hold of the line and pull enough through to cut off the offending part. It was actually easier than it sounds and probably took ten minutes. The wind vane is good as new. Next chance I get, I buying 50’ of 1/4” Spectra because I don’t have any onboard. The ocean became angry in the early afternoon. I fixed half the fish I caught yesterday, but it was a challenge to cook. Also, it is becoming warm in the cabin during the day because I am approaching the equator, and cooking just makes warmer. I prefer to sit in the cockpit, even if it means getting splashed from time to time. By mid-afternoon, the seas had calmed down, but clouds had moved in. The winds are becoming more easterly as I go south.
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In Constant Motion
I had to laugh this morning when my iPhone informed me that my “number of steps” is down the past four weeks. The funny thing is my body is in constant motion. I cannot move around the boat without three points of contact, gripping things with both hands. My body is constantly swaying and counteracting the motion of the boat. Even when I sleep, my body is tense to keep from rolling. I feel like I am at the gym 24/7.
Check-in April 5, 2025; 16:24 (Local)
Current Position: 10 58.458’N 127 01787W; Course: 180; SOG: 5.2 kt; TWS: 17.3 kt; TWD: 030; TWA: 142; Distance to Waypoint (Hiva Oa): 1438 nm; Total Miles Sailed: 1864 nm;
Comments: There was a beautiful sunset last night. The sun itself was blotted out by thick clouds, but the sea was turned red by indirect light. I tried to get some sleep about 20:30, but was waken a half hour later by an increase in wave height that caused the boat to roll. At daylight, I replaced the first reef line and shook out the second reef. About three-quarters of the Yankee was deployed. That gained me about 0.5 kt boat speed (5.5-6 in 18 kt). The seas are relatively calm this morning and the skies are clear. Should be a good day to make water. I relaxed in the cockpit most of the morning. It’s been 3-4 days since that was possible (because of the waves, spray, etc.). My 9:00 check showed I made (1610-1478) 132 nm on in the last 24h, my best day yet because I sailed only 16 degrees off the waypoint. That’s an average of 5.5 kt (half a knot better than average), and with a double-reefed main. The fact I used the TillerPilot the whole time (because the control lines on the wind vane need to be replaced) may have had something to do with it. The seas were relatively calm today. Winds blew steady 15-19 kt all afternoon, propelling the boat 5-6 kt. It was perhaps the best day of sailing since the trip began. It became partly cloudy in the afternoon, but nothing that looked threatening. As I write this, the boat is surrounded by flying fish. There are also many seabirds, feeding on the flying fish. It amazes me to find them a thousand miles from the nearest land. I have started including the total number of miles sailed since leaving on my trip from San Carlos. I just caught a Dorado, the perfect size for a couple of meals.
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Comments: There was a beautiful sunset last night. The sun itself was blotted out by thick clouds, but the sea was turned red by indirect light. I tried to get some sleep about 20:30, but was waken a half hour later by an increase in wave height that caused the boat to roll. At daylight, I replaced the first reef line and shook out the second reef. About three-quarters of the Yankee was deployed. That gained me about 0.5 kt boat speed (5.5-6 in 18 kt). The seas are relatively calm this morning and the skies are clear. Should be a good day to make water. I relaxed in the cockpit most of the morning. It’s been 3-4 days since that was possible (because of the waves, spray, etc.). My 9:00 check showed I made (1610-1478) 132 nm on in the last 24h, my best day yet because I sailed only 16 degrees off the waypoint. That’s an average of 5.5 kt (half a knot better than average), and with a double-reefed main. The fact I used the TillerPilot the whole time (because the control lines on the wind vane need to be replaced) may have had something to do with it. The seas were relatively calm today. Winds blew steady 15-19 kt all afternoon, propelling the boat 5-6 kt. It was perhaps the best day of sailing since the trip began. It became partly cloudy in the afternoon, but nothing that looked threatening. As I write this, the boat is surrounded by flying fish. There are also many seabirds, feeding on the flying fish. It amazes me to find them a thousand miles from the nearest land. I have started including the total number of miles sailed since leaving on my trip from San Carlos. I just caught a Dorado, the perfect size for a couple of meals.
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[Fishing] First Dorado
I’ve caught a lot of fish while sailing in the Sea of Cortez. However, sailing season in the SOC is generally during the cooler months. I spent the summers working on the boat. Being a warm water fish, I’ve never caught a Dorado until now. I haven’t been fishing much during this trip because the seas have been rough and it’s no fun cleaning a fish on a pitching deck. A week ago, I had a line out, but something bit clean through the steel leader. It was so nice today, I put a line out and caught this perfect-size fish in about 30 minutes. You don’t want to hook a monster that is going to take all your line. Even a medium-sized fish is a hassle because you usually have to stop the boat to land it. However. This little guy was small enough that I just reeled it in. And, it produced two meal-sized fillets … just right for a single-handed sailer because you don’t want to eat the same fish for three weeks (and I have done that in the past.
Check-in April 4, 2025; 16:37 (Local)
Current Position: 13 04.169’N 126 16.989’W; Course: 180; SOG: 5.1 kt; TWS: 20.6 kt; TWD: 037; TWA: 141; Distance to waypoint (Hiva Oa): 1569 nm;
Comments: Last night was uneventful. Concerned there might be squalls at night, I left the jib mostly furled and two reefs in the main. Still, I averaged 5 kt to the S. At first light I sat in the cockpit for a while. The seas had calmed down, but I was surrounded by squalls and heavily overcasts skies. I was only doing 4 kt in 14 kt of wind, but I resisted the urge to shake out a reef, because the wind almost always picks up after sunrise. Instead, I let out half the jib (which better balanced the sails anyway) and made 5.5 kt, which I was satisfied with until I could learn what Nature’s plan was for the day. I was as right about the wind, which picked up to 21 and veered more easterly about 8:30, allowing me to point almost directly at the Marquesas (195) and make 5.5-6 kt, which given the sea conditions, was about all I could expect. Sea conditions have made it very difficult to cook, but I managed to cook some curry noodles last night and oatmeal this morning. More importantly, I managed to get most of it in my mouth rather than all over the galley. My 9:00 progress check showed I made good 118 nm to the waypoint, one of my best days, despite using almost no headsail and a double-reefed main. This is due to the fact my heading is now towards the Marquesas. I also lost almost exactly two degrees of latitude, as expected. PredictWind has not come around to my way of thinking and has modeled basically the course I am on. It looks like I will have these 20+ kt winds until Sunday, and then the winds will die down. Starting next week, I’ll have to deal with the ITCZ. Once I know I don’t have to deal with wind gusts over 12 or so, I will break out the asymmetrical spinnaker. I have been following two other boats that left Cabo about the same time. Both chose to go south earlier. While it is unclear whether that strategy will prove to be faster, it is clear they are dealing with more serious storms down there right now. I had some excitement about when I discovered one of the control pins for the wind vane had washed overboard and was being dragged behind the boat. I used a gaff to retrieve it and did some acrobatics off the stern of the boat (while clipped in of course) in big following seas to retread the line through the tubing and pulley system of the wind vane. While doing that, I noticed the part of the line that goes through the tubes was frayed to the point that the wind vane is not reliable if used unattended (for example when I am sleeping). As a friend told me, everything on your boat is broken, you just don’t know it yet. Like yesterday, the sun came out for a bit in the middle of the day, just in time to charge the house battery bank. Up to that point, I had turned off everything that was not necessary to pilot the boat (including the VHF, AIS, refrigerator, etc.). The afternoon was pleasant sailing with 15-22 kt wind. I averaged 5 kt with half the Yankee and a double-reefed main. I could probably gained more, but it was nice for a change not to thrash about. I was able to prepare hot meals.
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Comments: Last night was uneventful. Concerned there might be squalls at night, I left the jib mostly furled and two reefs in the main. Still, I averaged 5 kt to the S. At first light I sat in the cockpit for a while. The seas had calmed down, but I was surrounded by squalls and heavily overcasts skies. I was only doing 4 kt in 14 kt of wind, but I resisted the urge to shake out a reef, because the wind almost always picks up after sunrise. Instead, I let out half the jib (which better balanced the sails anyway) and made 5.5 kt, which I was satisfied with until I could learn what Nature’s plan was for the day. I was as right about the wind, which picked up to 21 and veered more easterly about 8:30, allowing me to point almost directly at the Marquesas (195) and make 5.5-6 kt, which given the sea conditions, was about all I could expect. Sea conditions have made it very difficult to cook, but I managed to cook some curry noodles last night and oatmeal this morning. More importantly, I managed to get most of it in my mouth rather than all over the galley. My 9:00 progress check showed I made good 118 nm to the waypoint, one of my best days, despite using almost no headsail and a double-reefed main. This is due to the fact my heading is now towards the Marquesas. I also lost almost exactly two degrees of latitude, as expected. PredictWind has not come around to my way of thinking and has modeled basically the course I am on. It looks like I will have these 20+ kt winds until Sunday, and then the winds will die down. Starting next week, I’ll have to deal with the ITCZ. Once I know I don’t have to deal with wind gusts over 12 or so, I will break out the asymmetrical spinnaker. I have been following two other boats that left Cabo about the same time. Both chose to go south earlier. While it is unclear whether that strategy will prove to be faster, it is clear they are dealing with more serious storms down there right now. I had some excitement about when I discovered one of the control pins for the wind vane had washed overboard and was being dragged behind the boat. I used a gaff to retrieve it and did some acrobatics off the stern of the boat (while clipped in of course) in big following seas to retread the line through the tubing and pulley system of the wind vane. While doing that, I noticed the part of the line that goes through the tubes was frayed to the point that the wind vane is not reliable if used unattended (for example when I am sleeping). As a friend told me, everything on your boat is broken, you just don’t know it yet. Like yesterday, the sun came out for a bit in the middle of the day, just in time to charge the house battery bank. Up to that point, I had turned off everything that was not necessary to pilot the boat (including the VHF, AIS, refrigerator, etc.). The afternoon was pleasant sailing with 15-22 kt wind. I averaged 5 kt with half the Yankee and a double-reefed main. I could probably gained more, but it was nice for a change not to thrash about. I was able to prepare hot meals.
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Check-in April 3, 2025; 16:29 (Local)
Current Position: 15 40.541’N 125 29.557W; Course: 183; SOG: 5.3 kt; TWS: 16.8 kt; TWD: 043; TWA: 142; Distance to waypoint (Hiva Oa): 1728 nm;
Comments: I could tell last night the weather was changing. At 4:00 the winds shifted and I jibed south. I went back to sleep about 5:30 and woke up about 7:00 and looked outside and although the winds were relatively light, about 11 kt, I could tell there were storms developing. I wanted to furl the jib, but it seemed hung up. I went forward and found a piece of the furler sitting precariously on the bowsprit. I grabbed it before it fell overboard. The “finger ring” clamps around the base of the furler and keeps the furling line from wrapping around the forestay, I have been having a problem with that but couldn’t figure out why. The two halves clamp together with two screws and one a cleaved off, the consequence of crevice corrosion. Unfortunately, I did not have a a replacement for the special screw. Despite the fact the remaining screw was bent, I tightened it and used stainless steel wire in place of the other screw. The piece is not really load-bearing, so it should hold until I can arrange for a more permanent fix. While I was on the bowsprit fixing the furler, it started to rain. A squall was developing. I quickly finished my work, furled the headsail, and put two reefs in the main just as the squall hit with 35 kt winds. The worse of it was over pretty quickly, although it continued to rain for a couple of hours. I could see other squalls around the boat (visually and on radar), so I left the jib mostly furled and the two reefs in the main all day. Nonetheless, I sailed south at about 5-6 kt most of the day. As I write this, I can see more squalls upwind, so I will leave the sailed reduced overnight.
Comments: I could tell last night the weather was changing. At 4:00 the winds shifted and I jibed south. I went back to sleep about 5:30 and woke up about 7:00 and looked outside and although the winds were relatively light, about 11 kt, I could tell there were storms developing. I wanted to furl the jib, but it seemed hung up. I went forward and found a piece of the furler sitting precariously on the bowsprit. I grabbed it before it fell overboard. The “finger ring” clamps around the base of the furler and keeps the furling line from wrapping around the forestay, I have been having a problem with that but couldn’t figure out why. The two halves clamp together with two screws and one a cleaved off, the consequence of crevice corrosion. Unfortunately, I did not have a a replacement for the special screw. Despite the fact the remaining screw was bent, I tightened it and used stainless steel wire in place of the other screw. The piece is not really load-bearing, so it should hold until I can arrange for a more permanent fix. While I was on the bowsprit fixing the furler, it started to rain. A squall was developing. I quickly finished my work, furled the headsail, and put two reefs in the main just as the squall hit with 35 kt winds. The worse of it was over pretty quickly, although it continued to rain for a couple of hours. I could see other squalls around the boat (visually and on radar), so I left the jib mostly furled and the two reefs in the main all day. Nonetheless, I sailed south at about 5-6 kt most of the day. As I write this, I can see more squalls upwind, so I will leave the sailed reduced overnight.
Almost Loss Use of the Furler
I have been trying to figure out why my furling line is sometimes wrapped around the forestay, preventing me from furling the jib without going to the bowsprit and manually unwrapping the line. This morning I went forward to rig the whisker pole when I noticed something sitting on the bowsprit. It was the “ringer ring” (looks like a ring split down the middle with four fingers) for the furler. I quickly grabbed it before it fell overboard. The ring is clamped on with two screws. One was sheared (obviously the victim of crevasse corrosion) and the other was bent. Naturally the screws were unusual and I did not have one to fit it. However, the ring does not actually take much load, so I tightened the remaining screw and used some stainless steel wire to bind where the other screw should go. I will try to find a replacement screw in the French Polynesia. I’d I cannot find one, I will probably just drill and retap for a screw I do have.
Check-in April 2, 2025; 17:49 (Local)
Current Position: 16 04.090’N 124 06.263’W; Course: 245; SOG: 6.0 kt; TWS: 19.1 kt; TWD: 045; TWA: 149; Distance to waypoint (Hiva Oa): 1788 nm;
Comments: Last night was uneventful. Winds averaged about 15 and did not get experience the wind gusts that were predicted. Waves were high and at times the boat rolled significantly. I woke up to overcast skies … little solar. The weather forecast seems to be changing rapidly/often. My 9:00 progress check was 95 nm (1813 nm to waypoint). I have been traveling on average 260 all day, nearly due W. As I approach the longitude of the Marquesas, my progress towards the waypoint has been lessened, even though my average speed today was over 6 kt. I believe tomorrow by dusk or perhaps Friday morning I will be ready to jib towards the S. At that point, ai expect to make two degrees latitude per day until I reach the ITCZ.
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Comments: Last night was uneventful. Winds averaged about 15 and did not get experience the wind gusts that were predicted. Waves were high and at times the boat rolled significantly. I woke up to overcast skies … little solar. The weather forecast seems to be changing rapidly/often. My 9:00 progress check was 95 nm (1813 nm to waypoint). I have been traveling on average 260 all day, nearly due W. As I approach the longitude of the Marquesas, my progress towards the waypoint has been lessened, even though my average speed today was over 6 kt. I believe tomorrow by dusk or perhaps Friday morning I will be ready to jib towards the S. At that point, ai expect to make two degrees latitude per day until I reach the ITCZ.
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Check-in April 1, 2025; 16:20 (Local)
Current Position: 16 05.916’N 121 22.503’W; Course: 254; SOG: 6.1 kt; TWS: 17.8 kt; TWD: 035; TWA: 142; Distance to waypoint (Hiva Oa): 1875 nm;
Comments: Nature played an April Fool’s joke on me. Since I had just got cleaned up, I decided to wear something clean to sleep last night. When I went to the hanging locker, I found everything was soaked … my summer and winter clothes, clean bedding, towels, shoes … everything. A quick taste proved it was salt water. One of the latches for a porthole behind the door, one I cannot normally see and don’t use, was loose, and gallons of seawater must have come through it over the past week or so (I wired the dog ears of the hatch down so it cannot happen again). It is lucky I found out, or everything would have mildewed. In any case, the whole boat has been turned into a clothesline. Everything with zippers had to be rinsed in fresh water (so much for the water I made yesterday). It’s hard enough to keep things dry, now the inside of the boat is like a sauna. The clothes I washed this yesterday morning and were hanging all day outside were still not dry, so it is going to take days to get the things dry enough to store. And, I won’t be able to use the hanging locker because it’s going to take even longer to dry it out. Ironically, I also used the locker to store my extra-absorbent paper towels, which were of course a soggy mess. I am going to dry things in batches and store them in on top of the stuff in the V-berth until I get to the Marquesas, where hopefully I can find a laundry. Since I have turned the cockpit into clotheslines, I cannot even see the wind vane, so I set up the TillerPilot for the night. I was passed by no fewer than ten ships during the night, none closer than 10 nm (this must be a shipping lane from Asia to the Panama Canal). I had sustained winds of 25 kt for long periods (30-60m). Since the sails were unreefed, I adjusted my course to be 250 to reduce the speed, but still surfed 8 kt at times. Also, there was a tendency for the boat to want to round up during the particularly strong gusts, sometimes even 280, but the boat never felt overpowered. I can hear if water is coming across the leeward toe rail, and in general it was not. The forecast is for stronger winds at I travel W. I will reef tomorrow before dusk. My average speed overnight (beginning at 22:00) was 7.3 kt. At times, the boat was surfing almost 9 kt. Despite the fact that I had the course set for 255, the actual course was due west due to the boat rounding up in the gusts, which sometimes hit 30 kt. The forecast is for stronger winds as I travel W. I will reef tomorrow before dusk. Right now, it looks like Thursday morning I will gib and start heading S. My 9:00 progress check shows I have made good 96 nm towards the waypoint. Which is remarkable as I traveled almost due W the whole time. I am without doubt clear of the developing dead zone to the SE of me as it is blowing 25 kt steady. I notice that three sailboats that chose to travel S earlier than me are moving slower. One of them Bandit, who left a day and a half before me from Cabo, was 240 nm closer to the Marquesas, and now it is 200 nm, so I gained 40 miles on it despite the fact it is a larger/faster boat. I spent all day doing a preliminary drying of the clothes, bedding, shoes, etc. … developing a system. It was all made more difficult because the boat was rolling severely, anything hung anywhere outside except right under the hard dodger was just going to get more wet, there was no sun today, and I couldn’t open any of the portholes to get air in the cabin because periodic waves were crashing onto the deck. Nonetheless, by the end of the day, most of the stuff was at least partially dried. It was impossible to coke at the stove today. I ate some crackers and cheese, an apple, half a red bell pepper, and a hard boiled egg. In the afternoon the sea had settled down a bit after the blow last night, so I decided to shorten the sails to prepare for what I anticipate will be a bigger blow tonight. I sheeted the boom and the jib and headed downwind to take some of the load off the sails. I tried to partially furl the jib , but it would not budge. I could see the furling line was wrapped around the outside of the drum, something that happens sometimes when I sail downwind donating periods I went forward to clear the line and noticed a weld in one of the stanchions had failed under the load of a preventer line. I temporarily secured the stanchion, rerouted the preventer, cleared the furler line, and put a reef in the main. I’m going to have to find a welder in the Marquesas. It’s been a busy 24h.
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Comments: Nature played an April Fool’s joke on me. Since I had just got cleaned up, I decided to wear something clean to sleep last night. When I went to the hanging locker, I found everything was soaked … my summer and winter clothes, clean bedding, towels, shoes … everything. A quick taste proved it was salt water. One of the latches for a porthole behind the door, one I cannot normally see and don’t use, was loose, and gallons of seawater must have come through it over the past week or so (I wired the dog ears of the hatch down so it cannot happen again). It is lucky I found out, or everything would have mildewed. In any case, the whole boat has been turned into a clothesline. Everything with zippers had to be rinsed in fresh water (so much for the water I made yesterday). It’s hard enough to keep things dry, now the inside of the boat is like a sauna. The clothes I washed this yesterday morning and were hanging all day outside were still not dry, so it is going to take days to get the things dry enough to store. And, I won’t be able to use the hanging locker because it’s going to take even longer to dry it out. Ironically, I also used the locker to store my extra-absorbent paper towels, which were of course a soggy mess. I am going to dry things in batches and store them in on top of the stuff in the V-berth until I get to the Marquesas, where hopefully I can find a laundry. Since I have turned the cockpit into clotheslines, I cannot even see the wind vane, so I set up the TillerPilot for the night. I was passed by no fewer than ten ships during the night, none closer than 10 nm (this must be a shipping lane from Asia to the Panama Canal). I had sustained winds of 25 kt for long periods (30-60m). Since the sails were unreefed, I adjusted my course to be 250 to reduce the speed, but still surfed 8 kt at times. Also, there was a tendency for the boat to want to round up during the particularly strong gusts, sometimes even 280, but the boat never felt overpowered. I can hear if water is coming across the leeward toe rail, and in general it was not. The forecast is for stronger winds at I travel W. I will reef tomorrow before dusk. My average speed overnight (beginning at 22:00) was 7.3 kt. At times, the boat was surfing almost 9 kt. Despite the fact that I had the course set for 255, the actual course was due west due to the boat rounding up in the gusts, which sometimes hit 30 kt. The forecast is for stronger winds as I travel W. I will reef tomorrow before dusk. Right now, it looks like Thursday morning I will gib and start heading S. My 9:00 progress check shows I have made good 96 nm towards the waypoint. Which is remarkable as I traveled almost due W the whole time. I am without doubt clear of the developing dead zone to the SE of me as it is blowing 25 kt steady. I notice that three sailboats that chose to travel S earlier than me are moving slower. One of them Bandit, who left a day and a half before me from Cabo, was 240 nm closer to the Marquesas, and now it is 200 nm, so I gained 40 miles on it despite the fact it is a larger/faster boat. I spent all day doing a preliminary drying of the clothes, bedding, shoes, etc. … developing a system. It was all made more difficult because the boat was rolling severely, anything hung anywhere outside except right under the hard dodger was just going to get more wet, there was no sun today, and I couldn’t open any of the portholes to get air in the cabin because periodic waves were crashing onto the deck. Nonetheless, by the end of the day, most of the stuff was at least partially dried. It was impossible to coke at the stove today. I ate some crackers and cheese, an apple, half a red bell pepper, and a hard boiled egg. In the afternoon the sea had settled down a bit after the blow last night, so I decided to shorten the sails to prepare for what I anticipate will be a bigger blow tonight. I sheeted the boom and the jib and headed downwind to take some of the load off the sails. I tried to partially furl the jib , but it would not budge. I could see the furling line was wrapped around the outside of the drum, something that happens sometimes when I sail downwind donating periods I went forward to clear the line and noticed a weld in one of the stanchions had failed under the load of a preventer line. I temporarily secured the stanchion, rerouted the preventer, cleared the furler line, and put a reef in the main. I’m going to have to find a welder in the Marquesas. It’s been a busy 24h.
Sent from my iPhone