There was a classic explosion-proof light in the engine room. It was originally equipped with an incandescent lamp. As was done for the other lights in the boat, I wanted to convert the lamp to LED. My first effort was to use LED replacement lamps that have the usual Edison screw base, but I found the LED lights were unreliable and after a sail or two they would stop working. Looking for something more robust, I came upon these strings of LED lights that could be cut to any length.
I pulled the guts out of the old light. Then string of LEDs has an adhesive back, so mounting them was easy. I am very satisfied with the final result. The light is now much brighter than it was originally.
The specs for an Alajuela 38 claim a fuel capacity of 75 gallon. However, after emptying the tank into jerry cans, I measured the capacity to be 60 gallons. While measuring the capacity, I also calibrated a Simrad Fluid Level Sensor model 000-11518-001. The process involved adding ten gallons at a time and measuring the resistivity of the sending unit:
Volume (Gallons)
Resistivity (Ohms)
0
255
10
193
20
127
30
98
40
70
50
51
60
42
Note the change in resistivity is not linear. This is due in part to the non-linear behavior of the sending unit, but mostly due to the V-shape of the fuel tank. Without calibration, a “half tank” according to the mechanical gauge was probably in fact about a quarter tank. Having used five points to calibrate the Fluid Sensor (Empty, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and Full), it presumably gives a more accurate measurement of the fuel volume (highlighted in red).
I bought a used asymmetric spinnaker for $300, about 10% of what a new one costs. A large rip in the sail had been repaired with sail tape, but I decided to replace the ripped panel. I started by cutting out the panel along the seam.
I removed the residue from the tape using this 3M product … it worked perfectly.
I then used the cut out panel as a template to mark the new fabric with chalk. One of the straight edges of the new 1.5 oz nylon fabric was attached to one of the edges of the sail using double-sided basting tape, then the other side was attached with basting tape using the chalk outline as a guide. The panel was sewn on using a zig-zag stitch with UV-resistant polyester V-69 thread and a Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ machine (on the table in the background).
Once a single set of stitches were applied, the extra material was cut away and a second set of stitches were applies. A few other holes were also patched.
While the sail is not perfect, I will use it to decided if an asymmetric spinnaker is my preferred downwind solution. If it is, I will order another spinnaker and keep this one as a backup.
I sewed a bag to facilitate deployment of the spinnaker and its sock. I have a turtle bag, but it is threadbare and had to be replaced. The new bag has a 24″ diameter stainless steel hoop sewn into the opening and the top has an elastic band for closing. The bag also has two clips that can be attached to the lifeline.
It’s been about 45 years since I last went diving at San Pedro Island, about 15 miles north of an Carlos. I had a lovely time diving there today, two dives between 25 and 60 feet for about 50 minutes each. What I remember most clearly about diving at San Pedro in the 1970’s was diving with the seals. Today did not disappoint … and the seals were there.
Aegir-Ran’s original tiller is nearly seven feet long and was originally constructed of laminated hardwood. Unfortunately, the wood started delaminated. An effort was made to shore up the tiller by inserting dowels, but it still felt “hollow” under pressure.
Note two other features of the original tiller: 1) the cam cleats on the top (for the wind vane) and the bracket for the tiller pilot on the bottom are insecurely screwed into the wood and 2) the tiller extends well into the cockpit (making the cockpit difficult to use for purposes other than sailing). To address these issues, the tiller was rebuilt.
This was achieved by sawing the tiller in half, discarding the unusable handle, strengthening the remaining half of the tiller, building a bracket, and constructing a new handle. I started by cutting a groove down the middle of the tiller with a table saw and gluing in a 1-1/4″ x 3/16″ x 5′ bar of stainless steel (with a hole drilled through it for the main bolt).
Additional plates were recessed and glued on the two sides of the tiller where the bolt passes through. Note the white line of carbosil/epoxy that was used to fill the groove left after inserting the steel bar.
After reshaping the the end of the tiller to accept the new bracket using West Systems 407 Fairing Epoxy, the entire tiller was fiberglassed.
A bracket was designed with Fusion 360 and it was constructed by SendCutSend. Because the top was a different thickness than the sides and bottom (to accommodate tapping the threads for the cam cleats) and because the bracket could not be folded, the four sides of was constructed of tabs and slots (to insure alignment of the holes) and it was welded together. Note the tongue that extends from the bracket to accommodate the Tiller Pilot’s bracket.
The tongue of the bracket was attached to the tiller using stainless steel E-Z Knife Threaded Inserts (in addition to two 1/4″ stainless steel bolts the pass horizontally through the bracket).
A handle was designed with Fusion 360 anti was turned from a single piece of ash (not laminated like the original handle), stainless steel tubes were glued into the holes that accept the pins, and the block was fiberglassed to provide additional strength.
The handle is attached with 1/4″ stainless threaded rods and wing nuts so the handle is easily removed during long passages (to free up the cockpit).
So … after filling the day tank with fuel (15 gallons), it apparently drained (siphoned) out. I installed a Lowrance/Navico Fluid Level Sensor to put the fuel level of the day tank (15 gallons) on the NEMA 2000 network via the sending unit. Once I was able to monitor the fuel level, I discovered the fuel was indeed being siphoned. After I examined the plumbing, I decided to switch the engine return (without siphon tube) and overflow hoses (with a siphon hose) to/from the day tank, and this fixed the problem.
After more than four months on the hard – during which time she received a new fuel system, a bow thruster, bottom paint, etc. – she was put back in the water this morning. The launch was not without its problems. The dripless seal is dipping (and needs to be adjusted) and the engine would not run. Eventually, the problem was traced to an oil pressure sending unit that is attached to the alarm system. Because the sending unit was not tripping, the electric fuel pump was being shut off. I “hot-wired” the sending unit so the boat could be moved from the ramp to the slip.
A 15 gallon aluminum day tank was installed in the engine room on the shelf where the genes used to be mounted. Since it is located above the engine, the diesel is gravity-fed, which reduces the chances of an air blockage in the line.
Since the day tank will be filled from the main tank via the fuel polisher, the fill line for the day tank was located in the bottom of a lazarette. The fill line will only be used for emergencies, were for some reason it is not possible to transfer diesel from the main tank.
