Check-in May 8, 2025; 01:55 UTC

Current Position: 16 04.284’S 142 21.989W; Local Timezone: UTC-10; HDG: N/A; COG: N/A; SOG: N/A; Distance to Waypoint (Raroia): At Anchor; Total Miles Sailed: 3892 nm;
Comments: I am preparing myself and my boat for the passage to Tahiti beginning tomorrow. Slack (high) tide is about 13:00 tomorrow. I will motor across the lagoon in the morning so I am in position to cross. The Tuamotu Archipelago is going to be a challenge to cross. It will take me two days to navigate through them. By Sunday evening, I should be okay. I have had a good day … finished my punch list, including a dive and finishing off the shark (in a sort of gumbo). It is only about 5 nm from where I am to the passage out of the lagoon. I already have most of the boat ready … I hard boiled a half dozen eggs. I will cook a pasta dish and make a couple of cheese sandwiches in the morning. Sent from my iPhone

The Kon-Tiki Expedition

The Kon-Tiki expedition was a 1947 journey by raft across the Pacific Ocean from South America to the Polynesian islands, led by Norwegian explorer and writer Thor Heyerdahl. The raft was named Kon-Tiki after the Inca god Viracocha, for whom “Kon-Tiki” was said to be an old name. The trip began on April 28, 1947. Heyerdahl and five companions sailed the raft for 101 days over 6,900 km (4,300 miles) across the Pacific Ocean before smashing into a reef at Raroia in the Tuamotuson August 7, 1947. This is the motu that the Kon Tiki landed on.

in 2007, Heyerdahl’s son erected a monument to the event, which I visited today.

My Own Personal Motu

A motu is a reef islet formed by broken coral and sand, surrounding an atoll. In other words, it’s a very small island. This is my own personal motu for the next day or two. Note the rainbow on the left.

Check-in May 7, 2025; 02:51 UTC

Current Position: 16 04.284’S 142 21.989W; Local Timezone: UTC-10; HDG: N/A; COG: N/A; SOG: N/A; Distance to Waypoint (Raroia): At Anchor; Total Miles Sailed: 3892 nm;
Comments: I woke up this morning with the intention of moving the boat, but the wind is blowing hard (15-20 kt) and the surface of the water in the lagoon is not smooth, making it difficult to spot coral heads. I will get ready with the hopes that the water settles down later. I weighed anchor at 10:30. It was challenging because it the wind. Even though the wind continued to blow, it was easy to spot the coral heads with the sun high overhead. I arrived at the Kon Tiki site about 1:00, after carefully navigating through the coral heads, and dropped the anchor in about 30’ of water in front of a small motus. There is not much shelter here from the wind and in places the surf crashed over the reef, so the boat is rocking a bit. I worked on the wind vane a bit, then went snorkeling in a beautiful spot, and finally visited the memorial for the Kon Tiki. Even though there are three other boats here, they are spread out even more so than the boats at the north anchorage, so it seems more isolated here. I even have my own motus. I will ready the boat for the passage to Tahiti tomorrow. A small shower arrived at 16:50.

Check-in May 6, 2025; 01:18 UTC

Current Position: 15 57.155’S 142 19.120W; Local Timezone: UTC-10; HDG: N/A; COG: N/A; SOG: N/A; Distance to Waypoint (Raroia): At Anchor; Total Miles Sailed: 3885 nm;
Comments: As the sun set last night, there were thunderstorms to the north. Since shark steaks were not on the menu, I finished off the lentil dish I made a week ago. Sunset was at 5:11. The morning is partly cloudy with a stiff breeze. After doing some departure planning, and I thought about leaving tomorrow, but it would be a shame not to see where the Kon Tiki landed. I will finish my business at this anchorage today and then move to the Kon Tiki sight (16 3.944S, 142 21.802W) tomorrow (Wednesday). On Friday, I will make my way to the passage and cross at slack (high) tide at 12:45. A departure Friday at midday should have me clear the navigation hazards of the atolls after 24h of essential a SW heading, then about midnight Sunday a due W heading for an arrival Tuesday night (Wednesday morning after heaving to on the leeward side of Tahiti. My goals for today are finish fixing the wind vane, pack up the boat, do some snorkeling in two outcrops near the boat, and catch a blacktipped shark, in that general order. I accomplished all of my goals.

Remarkable Weight Loss

I was invited for “sundowners” yesterday evening by S/V LuLu and the subject of health came up. My hosts noted they had lost weight and generally felt less fit. When I returned to the boat, I weighed myself, the first time since I left Mexico. I am 178. I was 225 when I quit my job three years ago … 47 lbs difference. I am at the weight I was in high school, not through any concerted effort to diet, but simply through my lifestyle. Most of the weight came off in the first year or so after I stopped working. Instead of sitting behind a desk, I was working on and sailing my boat. When I began this current trip almost two months ago, I was perhaps 190 or so. My diet has not changed that much except in one respect, I do not drink any alcohol when I am sailing, although I do when I am at anchor, perhaps 25% of the time. Otherwise, my eating habits remain largely unchanged, I eat one large meal in the afternoon. So, I attribute the weight loss since leaving Mexico (perhaps 15 lbs or so) to the alcohol. Also, I am constantly exercising at sea, keeping my balance and flexing to react to the pitching and rolling of the boat. I feel healthy which is the most important thing.

…. and Sometimes You Eat The Shark

So, I learned some lessons yesterday after loosing three sharks I hooked and after losing a reef fish that I hooked to the sharks before I could land it. Number One, I do not want to hook a six-foot shark. Number Two, whatever I hook, I better land it fast. These lessons taught me that I need to target a small shark, like I used to target trout with my fly rod. I tossed some seven-day-old tuna out a few feet from the boat and I would pull it out again if a big shark took an interest. After the third try, a two and a half foot blacktip shark took the bait, and once hooked, I simply jerked it onto the deck before the other sharks made him their dinner. I got five nice-portioned piece of meat … exactly what I was looking for. I threw the rest of the tuna overboard and thanked the sharks for their service.

Some Days You Eat The Bear And Some Days The Bear Eats You

I tossed a line out with a chunk of six-day-old-tuna. Five minutes later, I had a four-foot blacktip shark on the line. It moved deliberately and cut the line on what I believe was the boat’s prop. I had been using the spinning rod. I moved to the open reel and put on a heave steel leader before trying again. Within a couple of minutes I had another strike … not a shark, it seemed like some sort of large reef fish, but the hook did not set. I went to look for my gaff and could not find it. I fear I left it on the deck when I caught the tuna and it got washed overboard. Since it was dark, I might not even noticed. I put a stronger steel leader on the line and just 20 minutes after starting, I had my second four-foot blacktip shark on the line. I fought it about 10 minutes and had it by the side of the boat when it bit clean through the steel leader. I fabricated a leader out of stainless steel wire and tried one last time. Within a minute there was a strike. By the time I got it to the surface, it was just a head. I had caught a good-sized reef fish, some sort of bass, but the sharks had made short work of it. By now the sharks were in a frenzy. I threw what was left of my fish in the water and they caught over it, some leaping out of the water. It was time to call it a day. I’ll try tomorrow when things settle down.



Check-in May 5, 2025; 01:18 UTC

Current Position: 15 57.155’S 142 19.120W; Local Timezone: UTC-10; HDG: N/A; COG: N/A; SOG: N/A; Distance to Waypoint (Raroia): At Anchor; Total Miles Sailed: 3885 nm;
Comments: The tuna is now five-day-old-fish and has been stored in a fridge I cannot cook all the time. I had a double portion last night, but I could already tell it is going off, so I am some as crab bait in a trap I just placed. The good news is the sun finally came out. The bad news is it is 16:40, a half hour before sunset. I’m at 96%, but ran the engine for another 30m mainly so I could cool the fridge a little more before shutting everything off for the night. I pulled the trap up after about 2h, and something had eaten through it and gotten the bait. There are a lot of things with sharp teeth here. It is sunset and the weather seems to have passed. I can see patches of blue sky. The location is mystic. You can hear the ocean raging on the other side of the reef, although your view is obscured by the coconut trees. On this side it is tranquil, like a swimming pool. The sea life takes refuge in the lagoon just like I have, and it is abundant. I have been in many tropical waters, but this is different. It is an aquarium. I dropped the crab cage again. It was down 15m and I noticed the line was taunt. I brought it up. Not only was the bait gone, but the bet cage was gone! All that was left was the wire frame. I looked down in the water and deep I could see dozens of sharks. Plan B will be a chunk of meat on a hook. Blacktip shark is supposed to be tasty. In the middle of the night, there was a small rain shower, as I had hoped for. I climbed the mast this morning to work on the wind instruments. I forgot how easy it is to get up there when the boat isn’t pitching. The WS310 unit is wired via a single NEMA2000 connector at the top of the mast. I was able to monitor whether the unit was working at the top of the mast using my iPhone connected to the Cortex system. I unplugged the unit (no evidence of corrosion) and reseated the plug. It still did not work. I brought the unit down with me and plugged it directly into the dongle on the network (bypassing the cable that goes up the mast, but it still did not work. Figuring I had nothing to loose, I removed the four screw that hold a plate on the unit, but found everything inside was encased in epoxy. It was not designed to be serviced. Just to be certain, I unplugged the dongle and moved the whole unit to the beginning of the network, but it still did not work. Either the dongle or the wind instrument is defective. I turned on the Starlink for the first time since leaving Mexico. I still have service until the 8th, but by turning it on I assume I am starting the clock on the “two month rule.” I ordered replacement wind instruments and had them sent to my brother David in Tucson. I am still not sure how I will get them. Tahiti required that I use a customs agent, which costs at least $250. Also, there is no guarantee the part would arrive/clear in time for me to get it in Tahiti. I am looking into having it shipped to the Cook Islands because I do not plan to spend much time in Tahiti … it is a zoo and they don’t make it easy on transient sailors. While in the Internet, I also looked into more details regarding anchoring in Tahiti (rules are changing all the time) and I ordered the Navionics maps for the South Pacific islands. Another small shower passed through at 14:00. No wind to speak of, just a gentle rain. I left the dive gear out to be rinsed, but took all the dry ropes, etc. in out of the rain. At 14:00, I also tossed a line out with a chunk of six-day-old-tuna. Five minutes later, I had a four-foot blacktop shark on the line. It moved deliberately and cut the line on what I believe was the boat’s prop. I had been using the spinning rod. I moved to the open reel and put on a heave steel leader before trying again. Within a couple of minutes I had another strike … not a shark, it seemed like some sort of large reef fish, but the hook did not set. I went to look for my gaff and could not find it. I fear I left it on the deck when I caught the tuna and it got washed overboard. Since it was dark, I might not even noticed. At 14:30, just 30 minutes after starting, I had my second four-foot blacktip shark on the line. I fought it about 10 minutes and had it by the side of the boat when it bit clean through the steel leader. I fabricated a leader out of stainless steel wire and will try one last time. Within a minute there was a strike. By the time I got it to the surface, it was just a head. I had caught a good-sized reef fish, some sort of bass, but the sharks had made short work of it. By now the sharks were in a frenzy. I threw what was left of my fish in the water and they caught over it, some leaping out of the water. It was time to call it a day. I’ll try tomorrow when things settle down.

Check-in May 4, 2025; 01:26 UTC

Current Position: 15 57.155’S 142 19.120W; Local Timezone: UTC-10; HDG: N/A; COG: N/A; SOG: N/A; Distance to Waypoint (Raroia): At Anchor; Total Miles Sailed: 3885 nm;
Comments: I was awoken about 2:00. The boat was heeled over and the wind was howling with gale-force winds. The boat was healed over because I had lashed the boom to starboard to expose the solar panels while at anchor. I went on deck and untied the lashing and the boat uprighted. I went below and turned on the AIS so I could use the Cortex system to determine if the anchor was dragging. Also, it was disorienting outside. The only light was from the boat anchor lights at the tops of the masts. The water spray reduced visibility. I turned on the instruments and discovered the boat was facing due south. The wind had shifted almost 180 degrees. The anchor was holding. I am thankful I moved the boat yesterday from the cramped/dangerous anchorage at the village and I am also thankful I put out extra rode yesterday when I set the anchor because this feels like 40 kt winds. I woke again at 4:00 and the wind was blowing from the NE again, but not as hard. When I got up at 6:00, right after dawn and after having slept nearly 12h, it was calm with a breeze from the SE. Even before breakfast, I fixed the DC-DC charger and fired up the engine (maybe for the first time) specifically to charge the house battery bank. I ran the engine for 90m and reached a charge of 87%. Perhaps more importantly, I was able to run the fridge while the engine was running. Even though it is very dark today, I am hoping the solar system will charge the batteries the rest of the way. The black tipped sharks still circle the boat. I am definitely going swimming with them when the weather clears up. By midmorning, it was becoming clear that the weather was breaking up. The lockers in the cockpit had taken on water during the passage. Both have pumps, but they are not automatic and the one on the starboard side is not positioned at the lowest point in the locker. I had to remove everything (mostly rope on the starboard and dive equipment on the port), wash in seawater, and set everything out to dry, I’m hoping there is another good rain shower to rinse everything off. I took the dinghy to shore. It is so freaking cool. There are all sorts of tropical fish, crabs, clams, sharks and other marine life right next to the shore. In a case of two for two today (first the DC-DC charger), I believe I fix the wind vane … I used a bigger hammer. When I studied how the windvane was binding via the gears, it was obvious the lower shaft had been pushed forward ever so slightly when the tug moved me at Hiva Oa. It wasn’t obvious to the eye. I got in front of it in my dingy and gave it a couple of swift kicks from both sides, and now the windvane moves freely. It is still slightly out of alignment (there is a procedure for physically aligning the windvane and watervane), but I will fix that when the wind isn’t blowing so hard. I won’t be able to test the wind vane in the lagoon of this atoll because it is too dangerous to sail (too many coral heads), but I’m pretty confident I will have it working before I return to open sea. I am going to see if I can solicit help when I go up the mast to look at the wind instruments. It would be helpful to have someone below to tell me if they are working while I jiggle the connectors at the top of the mast. Now I’m going to have a beer.