I have installed Starling RV on the boat. The Mexican version was purchased, which is much cheaper than in the US ($410). Service is also cheaper ($65/month). I am getting 200 Mbs in Marina San Carlos.
Starlink Installed
Cover for the Butterfly Hatch
I sewed a cover for the butterfly hatch today. An unique aspect is the one-inch PVC filled with sand that weighs down the edges, making it unnecessary to cinch down the cover.
Precision-9 Compass Installed
To integrate the chart plotter, radar, and autopilot, an electronic compass needed to be installed. I chose a Precision-9. In addition to reporting direction, the device also reports pitch and roll, and so it should be mounted at the center of gravity in the boat, preferably at the waterline. After exploring possibilities, we decided on mounting the compass on the mast below deck. The problem was the mount was designed for a flat surface. We started by tracing the contour of the mast where we wanted to mount the device.
We then used a table saw to cut the mount out of a block of wood.
Note the contour is rough-cut with the table saw. That surface was filled with epoxy (combined with an epoxy filler), and it was sanded and painted with enamel (on the right, the block on the left is a spacer for the wind instruments).
The adapter was used in combination with the compass mount to install the compass on the mast.
Aegir-Ran’s New Home
The Alajuela 38 has a new home in Marina San Carlos.
Aegir-Ran has Splashed!
After six months of work, seven days a week, the refit of my Alajuela 38 is complete, and the boat splashed. The work that remains is relatively minor and can be completed on the water.
Anchor Light with Photodiode
I installed the masthead light with the circuitboard today. The photodiode was epoxied into the top of the water-tight box containing the electronics. My neighbors in the yard were impressed and suggested I should market the device.
Estimating Range Under Power
The Aegis-Ran sports a Westerbeke 3 cyl. 35 hp. Model# 35C diesel engine that operates 2500-3000 RPM while cruising. Consulting the literature for this engine:
And, considering the tankage of 75 gal, assuming 2750 RPM (fuel consumption is about 0.8 gal/h), I calculate a range of:
1 h/0.8 gal x 75 gal = 94 h; 94 h x 5 NM/h = 470 NM
However, a friend who has an Alajuela 38 said he had a range of 600 NM while motoring down the West Coast, albeit with a different engine. Assuming, I had 50 gal of storage in Jerry cans, I estimate the range of the boat will be:
1 h/0.8 gal x 125 gal x 5 NM/h = 780 NM (or perhaps closer to 1000 NM)
Once the boat splashes, I will begin keeping an accurate fuel log.
Update: I recently emptied the main fuel tank and measured the volume to be 60 gallons (not 75 as per specs). Together with the 15 gallon day tank that was recently installed, this gives a total capacity of 75 gallons, so the calculation above remains valid. However, I have decided to keep 25 gallons on the deck or in the lazarettes.
1 h/0.8 gal x 100 gal x 5 NM/h = 625 NM (or perhaps closer to 750 NM)
Now that I have fuel level sensors and a fuel monitoring system on the NEMA 2000 network, I will start keeping closer track of actual fuel usage.
The Rudder Has Been Removed
The twelve bronze bolts were removed from the rudder using an impact hammer. They came off with surprising ease considering they have been underwater for the better part of five decades. Once unbolted, it was possible to chip away at the gel coat that encapsulated part of the bronze gudgeons.
The pintles were left mounted to the hull, which made it more difficult to remove the rudder, However, with the help of a crane and after removing the wind vane, there was just enough room to move the 300 lb rudder straight back and clear the gudgeons. Alejandro, shown in the photo, has been hired to repair the rudder, which has some separation and also needs the cheeks attached and fiberglassed over.
Bow Pulpit Refinished
The teak for the bow pulpit was sanded and coated with two layers of teak oil.
Replacement Cheeks Fabricated for Rudder
The original teak cheeks for the rudder experience dry rot and the previous owner cut the tops of them and fabricated a very ugly stainless steel can to replace them. However, this changed the lines of the boat dramatically. It is not possible to obtain high-density teak anymore and low-density teak does not have the same structural strength. In fact, even the original teak cheeks experience cracks where the bolt for the tiller passed, and that point was definitely the weak link in the design. So, we fabricated new cheeks using the original shape using marine plywood. The original cheeks were 1-1/2″ thick, so we employed two layers of 3/4″ plywood and to afford even greater strength for the stress of the tiller we sandwiched in-between the layers of plywood a sheet of 3/16″ stainless. The stainless was cut to shape with an angle grinder, drilled with cobalt-tipped bits, and the plywood was routed out to accommodate the piece of stainless steel.
The two halves of plywood were glued with epoxy, the edge was rounded with the router, and the cheeks were soaked in resin.
The cheeks will be mounted to the rudder with countersunk bolts (just like the original teak cheeks), but the bolt holes will be filled with resin and the cheeks will be covered with layers of fiberglass, thereby creating a sold fiberglass rudder that will be considerably stronger than the original. we will fabricated a spacer for the top of the cheeks out of the original teak cheeks.