Ritchie Globemaster Compass Rebuilt

Aegir-Ran came with a vintage Ritchie compass that was in need of rebuilding. The plexiglass globe was cracking, the paint was flaking off, the 12V cigarette-lighter plug was broken, the wire was frayed, and there was some corrosion. It was surprisingly easy to disassemble the compass. After loosening with PB Blaster, two screws removed the light hood, two screws on the bezel separated the compass from the custom holder, six screws removed the bezel, and a single screw clamped on the base.

The serial number on the label on the base identified the compass model as a 5″ Ritchie Globemaster from the early 1970s. Fortunately, parts for this compass are still available. The incandescent light bulbs are no longer manufactured, but LED equivalents are. I was able to order a new globe, a rebuild kit (that includes new o-rings and compass fluid), and a new red LED light harness from the Viking Compass Company for $172 (including tax and shipping). The exact same Marine Grade Locking Cigarette Lighter Plug was also available for $12. 

After sanding and repainting with crinkle-textured Rust-Oleum paint, reassembly was straight-forward. However, refilling the fluid can be a challenge. This is the set-up I used. The compass was positioned so the filling hole was higher than the rest of the compass, a syringe without the plunger was used as a funnel, and the odorless mineral oil was added until the globe was mostly full. The challenge is removing the last bubble of air. The is achieved by positioning the bubble at the filling port and the by carefully pressing on the diaphragm at the bottom of the compass to force the air out. It helps to push the o-ring to the top of the screw before plugging the filling port.

The compass retails for $850 (without the mount and lighting), but I was able rebuild it for $200 and it looks like-new.

The compass still needs to be calibrated.

Adding A Photodiode Circuit to the Anchor Light

I ordered a new LED anchor light that is supposed to turn on automatically at night. Imagine my disappointment when I installed the light (after an eleven-hour round-trip to Tucson to pick it up) to learn that it emitted RED light! The company I ordered it from apologized and sent a replacement. After another trip to Tucson to pick it up, imagine my continued disappointment to learn that the new light has a different mount AND it does not have the automatic on/off feature. A call to the company confirmed that the lamp they sent me is all that they have. Since I am restepping the mast in a couple of days, I did not have time to arrange for a new light, but I really wanted the automatic on/off feature. So … I ordered a small circuit board from Amazon (with one-day service) that is designed to turn automobile headlights on automatically at night. Naturally, the circuit board came with ZERO instructions. Here I am doing a quick test of the circuit using my car battery to confirm that it works.

The white wire in the lower left had the photodiode at the end (covered with black electrical tape). A few tests demonstrated the relay on the board can either be configured normally on or off. The first time I wired it backwards (the anchor light was on during the day), but switching a couple of wires fixed the problem. Since I imagine this add-on would be of interest to other sailors, I will post the details later.

Spreaders Repaired

For weeks ago I discovered one of the tangs on the spreader had nearly pulled out. I ha a stainless steel cap made, which was installed today. Note I had a bracket welded on for a small block the starboard side (for courtesy flags) and the port side (for a radar reflector).

I also sewed on leather boots:

Tiller Installed

I know this may seem trivial … but the tiller was installed this morning. It has been six months since the tiller/rudder was complete. Somehow, this seems momentous. I am very pleased with the esthetics of the rudder rebuild … so much better than the ugly stainless cap that was about to be put on by the previous owner.

Westerbeke Instrument Panel Rebuilt

All of the instruments in the cockpit have been replaced except for the Westerbeke Diesel engine instrument panel. The panel looked pretty weathers. However, it was possible to buy spare parts for the panel, including the bezel, Plexiglass window, and rubber covers for the buttons. The challenge was to move the instruments to the new bezel. There were perhaps 50 wire connections. A label-maker was used to label all of the terminals and the wires.

The final result was a new-looking panel.

Note a new Westerbeke Admiral Instrument Panel costs $750, but the cost for replacing the bezel, window, button covers and a new ignition with was about $100.