Sailing Single-Handed Without An Engine

I had been sailing for about a month, crossed from San Carlos to Santa Rosalia, and made my way slowly south down most of the length of Baja, about 400 miles. On March 26th, I was anchoring at Muertos in southern Baja (marked with the red X) and the engine stopped suddenly … on a dime. I immediately checked the temperature and oil pressure, and they were fine. I pulled the injectors and tried to turn over the engine with a wrench, and it would not budge. The engine was clearly not hydrolocked. There had been a catastrophic internal failure. The engine was seized. Considering my predicament, I decided it did not make sense to sail to La Paz to try to get the engine repaired. It appeared there had been an internal failure.

Without an engine, I had to consider a route back to my home port that did not require maneuvering in tight places. As a first step, on March 29 at 4:00 AM, I sailed for Isla Espiritu Sato. Not wanting to negotiate the Cerralvo Channel, I sailed east of Isla Cerralvo. About four-fifths around the island, about 16 miles from the anchorage (Bonanza), the island blocked the prevailing westerly winds and I sat becalmed for about four hours, The north current eventually floated the boat past the island. At the point there wind changed to the SSE and stabilized at 15 knots. The sea conditions were poor with 5′ waves from the east. I anchored at Bonanza at 9:30 PM. I note that my trip from Bonanza to Muertos a few days earlier had taken one-third the time.

The next morning, March 30, sea conditions were not ideal, but there were 15 knot winds from the south, so I left for Isla San Francisco at 8:30 AM, moving briskly at 6 kn with just the jib. While I tries to stay well offshore of Isla Espiritu Santo, I nonetheless got Becalmed about halfway across the island. Around 4:00 PM the wind build quickly to 22 knots, still from the south. I double reefed the main and shortened the jib, but still made the remaining 15 miles before dusk. I reached the eastern anchorage of Isla San Francisco just as it was getting dark. There were five sailboats and a powerboat anchored there. I radioed ahead for advice and was told there was room for me. I explained I would be coming in under sail. Over the next ninety minutes, I tried three times from three different angles to reach the anchorage, but the wind was howling through the notch that connects the southern and eastern anchorages that drove me off each time. Eventually, I radioed that I was abandoning my attempt to anchor and was heading offshore.

After fighting the ever changing wind and sea condition around the islands, I decided to sail directly to San Carlos. I plotted a path well offshore and sailed through the night in a close haul and an average of 22 knots of wind, at times surfing at 8.5 knots SOG. I sailed 60 miles between 9:00 PM and 5 AM (averaging 7.5 knots). I thought about anchoring at Bahia Salinas on Isla Carmen about midday, but upon looking at the weather forecast, I realized this would be the only chance I would have for crossing this week, as later in the week 5-6′ seas were expected. Thus, on March 31, Easter, I decided to continue the 135 miles to San Carlos. There was, however, a problem. I had been sailing about 24 hour since my last anchorage at Bonanza. Sailing overnight, I had run the radar and AIS to geofence the boat and used the TillerPilot, depleting the batteries to 65%. At 50%, the batteries are cut off to protect their health. My pattern had bent rely on the instrumentation and autopilot at night, dozing thirty minute intervals, so I needed power for the next night.Unfortunately, there was very little sun. In fact, the weather was very squally. To save power, I shut down all power consumption, including the instrumentation, radio, autopilot, and even the fridge. I broke out the compass and engaged the wind vane.

I dodged squalls most of the day, sailing 4-6 knots in mostly light winds. That evening, the wind picked up to about 15 knots from the NW and I made good time overnight using the instrumentation and the wind vane. Early afternoon the next day, April Fools day, the wind died down. At 2:30 PM, about 24 miles from San Carlos, I became becalmed. About 6:30 PM, right at dusk, I spotted a squall to the NW. About 9:00 PM, I reached the squall and rode it in to San Carlos. The last mile or two, dolphins swam next to the boat. I anchored at La Posada about 1:00 AM on April 2nd. I had been sailing about 65 hours non-stop.

The next morning was sunny and there was a light breeze of about 8 knots. I sailed around the corner and into the mouth of the Bahia San Carlos. Unfortunately, the wind was blocked by the shore at the point, and I eventually called a friend on S/V Infinity to help tow me in with their dingy. They also towed me in the next morning when Aegir-Ran was hauled out,

Itinerary for the Next Month

After a near-perfect passage from San Carlos on February 29, Aegir-Ran has been in a slip in Santa Rosalia. On March 5th, I will start heading south. This is the plan for perhaps the next ten days (the waypoint in parentheses is from Breeding and Banister’s book “A Cruiser’s Guide to the Sea of Cortez“.

Santa Rosalia to Santo Domingo (BCS470), 38
Santa Domingo to San Juanico (BCS444), 47
San Juanico to Isla Coronados (BCS420), 20
Isla Coronados to Bahia Salinas (BCS404), 26
Bahia Salinas to Puerto Escondido (BCS351), 20
Puerto Escondido to San Marte (BCS277), 31
San Marte to Puerto Las Gatos (BCS251), 14
Puerto Las Gatos to San Everisto (BCS222), 29
San Everisto to Isla San Francisco (BCS201), 9
San Francisco to Playa Bonanza (BCS110), 29
Playa Bonanza to Ensenada de los Muertos (BCS030), 43
Ensenada de los Muertos to Bahia Los Frailes (BSC020), 46
Bahia Los Frailes to Puerto Los Cabos (BCS010), 28

March 7 – Caleta San Juanico: I anchored here about 5:30 last night. This photo was taken the next morning, the calm after the storm … it blew 30 knots most of the night.

Anchored in Bahia ConcepcioƱ

On the last day of 2023, I crossed the Sea of Cortez from San Carlos to Santa Rosalia. Since then, I have made my way slowly to Bahia ConcepcioƱ, where I am currently anchored in front of Playa El Burro. This was my view this morning. Isla Coyote and Isla Guapa are in the background. My plan is to stay in Bahia ComcepcioƱ until weather permits crossing back over to San Carlos. There have been week-long violent storms for since I have been here, sometimes with steady 20 knot winds and seas to 5′. Since I need to be back in the United States by the first of February, I will not procrastinate and instead take the next opportunity to cross. Right now, it looks like the 19th may be a good day.

Stress Fracturing of Block Nut

Sailing from Bahia Algodones to Bahia San Padro, the starboard jib block failed. It’s nut suffered unseen crevice corrosion, causing the pin to pop out and the sheave to be slingshotted across the cockpit. The nut that failed was split in four places! Chloride ions can cause localized corrosive attack (pitting and crevice corrosion) of stainless steels.

Fortunately, the winds were light at the time , all of the parts were recovered, and a replacement nut was on-board.

Work on Top of Mast

I replaced some temporary carabiners with a block on top of the mast through which a back-up halyard runs. The halyard is a static climbing rope that I also use to climb the mast., At one point as I replaced the hardware I was clipped into the top of the mast and without a rope to descend the mast. You can be sure that I was extra careful not to drop the rope, especially as it is Friday the 13th.

First Sail

We took the Aegir-Ran out for a shake-down sail today. The wind was blowing about 10 knots when we began and about 25 knots when we brought her back to the dock about two hours later. We raised the three sails and achieved almost 8 knots. Docking after the wind picked up proved challenging. Using the “stern upwind rule”, we had to back the boat into the slip.

Staysail and Mainsail Halyards Shortened

The halyards are cable spliced onto rope. The cables of the staysail and mainsail halyards were too long to allow the sails to be raised completely because the winches were not designed for wire. Today I shorted each by a couple of feet (as I did previously for the jib halyard), so all the sails are operational.