Author: mtashby

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Check-in May 24 2025; 0:05 UTC

Current Position: 17 33.957’S 149 37.068’W; Local Timezone: UTC-10; HDG: N/A; COG: N/A; SOG: N/A; Distance to Waypoint (Tahiti, Carrefour Bay): At Anchor; Total Miles Sailed: 4229 nm;
Comments: I was awaken about midnight by the rolling of the boat and the sound of surf. It was high tide and the larger waves that were predicted had arrived. When I got up in the morning, I got the rigging ready (reattached the jiffy reefing lines, sorted out the halyards, tested the furler after its repair, etc.). Then I picked up the cabin and got the galley ready for the provisions. I cleaned out the fridge and sorted the recyclables before removing the trash from the boat. I dropped of the laundry before going to the Carrefour to shop, then stopped back by to move the laundry to the drier before returning to the boat to stow the mostly perishable provisions. I removed almost everything from its packaging and put it in recyclable containers. I went to to the fuel dock to top off the gasoline, drop off the trash, and pick up the clothes. I may not need to leave the boat tomorrow. I plan to cook for the passage and finish getting the boat ready to leave Monday, which still looks like the best weather window. I laid down for a rest until 13:30, then went snorkeling. There was not much live coral and the visibility was poor, but there were plenty of reef fish and I saw a sea turtle.
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Check-in May 22 2025; 2:53 UTC

Current Position: 17 33.957’S 149 37.068’W; Local Timezone: UTC-10; HDG: N/A; COG: N/A; SOG: N/A; Distance to Waypoint (Tahiti, Carrefour Bay): At Anchor; Total Miles Sailed: 4229 nm;
Comments: I got up early to prepare the boat for a passage. I have some black mold in the sink drain, so I was looking for some disinfectant. When I looked under the sink, there was dampness that I traced to the drain. When I touched the nut that holds the hose to the drain, it disintegrated. It had completely corroded through, even though I replaced it two years ago and it was supposed to be stainless steel. Since the waterline is right at the sink and I had the boom swung over to the starboard side to tilt the boat when I changed out the one-way valve yesterday, water started to rush into the cabin. I quickly closed the seacock. Fortunately, I replaced that seacock last summer because the old one was very difficult to close. Now I need to find an odd sized piece of plumbing or rig something else. A small miracle … I found the part, but it is in plastic. Not sure I trust it to hold, so I am rigging a support for the hose to help keep pressure off the fitting and support the hose should it break (so water won’t come flooding in). I was going to install the wind instruments, but the boat was rocking too much earlier and now storms are coming through (not a good idea to climb the mast). However, I plugged the instruments in and confirmed it was the wind instrument (not the dongle) that was bad. At the end of the day, things calmed down and I was able to go up the mast and install the instruments. They seem to be working. I meet the Border Police tomorrow at 9:00 to check out and get my Zarpe.
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Check-in May 21 2025; 11:49 UTC

Current Position: 17 33.957’S 149 37.068’W; Local Timezone: UTC-10; HDG: N/A; COG: N/A; SOG: N/A; Distance to Waypoint (Tahiti, Carrefour Bay): At Anchor; Total Miles Sailed: 4229 nm;
Comments: I am starting to provision today, starting with liquids … water and diesel. I transferred 15 gal of diesel from Jerry cans into the main tank, added some disinfectant, then filled five 5 gal Jerry cans at the fuel dock. I also transferred 20 gal of water into the main tank and made two trips to fill into two 5 gal Jerry cans. 20 gals of water is what I have used out of the main tank since the Marquesas, so I am using about 5 gal of water per week out of the main tank, mostly rinsing dishes and boiling water for cooking. I also worked on the wind vane, cleaning the watervane and attaching a line to the bottom of it so it is easier to raise, and pounding on the stem a bit more to try to get the windvane to work more smoothly. I replaced the one-way valve between the bilge pump for the port lazerette and the seacock. It was leaking causing the lazerette to partially fill with water. I completed some more paperwork for my FEDEX package, which I hope to receive tomorrow, and I scheduled my check-out for Friday, when I hope to get my Zarpe. Finally, I dove to change the pitch of the prop. Probably the most difficult part of that was unthreading a grease nipple that keeps the ring in place that is used to change the pitch. I was fighting a current and the boat was pitching. I celebrated completing my entire punch list for today (by 14:00) by making myself a G&T (with some flat tonic). The only really difficult things left to do is climb the mast to install the wind instruments, when I get them, and make a couple trips to the Carrefour to provision, which I will break out my cart for.
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Check-in May 20 2025; 3:02 UTC

Current Position: 17 33.957’S 149 37.068’W; Local Timezone: UTC-10; HDG: N/A; COG: N/A; SOG: N/A; Distance to Waypoint (Tahiti, Carrefour Bay): At Anchor; Total Miles Sailed: 4229 nm;
Comments: It was another work day. I started by removing the pre-filter (which was completely clogged) and circulated the fuel in the main tank through the Racor water separator. The pressure at the Racor filter fell to into the normal range. The pump is rated at 33 GPH and I estimate I have 65 gal in the main tank. Since the pick-up tube is at the bottom and the tank has been more or less stable for a week, I imagine the debris and water is at the bottom of the tank. After pumping for two hours, there was relatively little water and debris in the bowl of the Racor, so I pumped fuel into the day tank. After 35m, 12.6 gal had been pumped into the tank and the pump began to make the loud clicking noise. I could find no leaks. As far as I can tell, the vacuum required to pull the fuel from the main tank and then push it down the tube (which would have back pressure from the fuel in the tank) was too much for the pump. I turned the pump off and tried to start the engine. After I bit, I had bled the air out of the line and the engine started and ran smoothly. The engine will run to 3900 arpm when not under load. After about an hour, I turned the engine off and restarted the fuel pump and it seemed to run fine until about the same volume in the tank, then the pressure gages read zero and the strange sound comes from the pump. I don’t understand it. I took a taxi to the AutoPro to pick up fuel filters. When I returned, I dove on the prop to try to change the pitch. The ring was covered with barnacles (because it was the only part not painted with PropSpeed), so I got the wooded spatula I use to scrap the hull to remove them. While I was at it, I scrapped the hull. After doing that, I was too tired to work on the prop, so I opened a beer and laid down. The FEDEX package with the wind instruments have arrived and are being processed. I suspect getting and installing them will be the rate-determining factor in departing for Tonga. However, I have been doing some weather planning and it looks pretty nasty until Monday. Before that, I’d be looking at a couple of days of 10-15’ waves on the beam and a lot of rolling.
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Check-in May 19 2025; 2:29 UTC

Current Position: 17 33.957’S 149 37.068’W; Local Timezone: UTC-10; HDG: N/A; COG: N/A; SOG: N/A; Distance to Waypoint (Tahiti, Carrefour Bay): At Anchor; Total Miles Sailed: 4229 nm;
Comments: I started the day by chasing down the air leak in the fuel polishing system. It was the clamp on the large pre-filter, which was tight enough to suck fuel out of the day tank, but not the main tank. Once tightened, I was able to polish the fuel in the main tank. It is clear from the gages that a lot more vacuum is necessary to pull fuel up from the main tank. After 30m of polishing the main tank (maybe 15 gal), it was clear the filters were becoming clogged, since fuel was still flowing, I let them be. Ideally, I will remove most of the particulates before I have to change the filter. In the meantime, while the fuel was being polished, I removed the mainsail and laid it out in the deck to be sewn. It was not that easy to get the Sailrite machine on deck, but easier than trying to sew the sail in the cabin. I took advantage of overcast skies in the morning to repair the sail. When I finished repairing the sail, I checked on the fuel polisher, which was still working on the main tank. The pump was making a strange noise and was hot. I turned it off to cool down, then switched it over to circulating the fuel in the day tank and it worked fine. I suspect the pre-filter is clogged and stage extra effort to pump from the main tank was too much for it. I took the dinghy in to buy some Racor filters, do a little shopping for groceries, and check where I can get potable water. The water on the dock is chlorine treated and drinkable. Tomorrow, I will start the process of filling the main tank. It will take several trips because one of my 5 gallon Jerry cans has very good drinking water, which only leaves me two to move water. I suspect it will take at least three trips. There was a rain shower at 14:15. Not a great day for making solar energy. I wanted to run the engine a bit anyway, to finish circulating all the fluids before changing the filters tomorrow. I was having trouble getting the engine started. I turned on the instruments and discovered there was no fuel in the day tank. This is surprising because I didn’t think I had pumped it out. I used to have a problem where the fuel would get siphoned out because the overflow to the main tank was a tube that when to the bottom of the day tank, but I thought I had fixed that. The pressure gauges (and the sound of the trickling of fuel into the day tank) tells me the filters are nearly plugged, but I will leave the pump running for a bit to see if I can transfer some fuel from the main tank into the day tank. I need to take a taxi to the auto parts store tomorrow and pick up the fuel filters before changing all the filters out.
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Check-in May 18 2025; 1:00 UTC

Current Position: 17 33.957’S 149 37.068’W; Local Timezone: UTC-10; HDG: N/A; COG: N/A; SOG: N/A; Distance to Waypoint (Tahiti, Carrefour Bay): At Anchor; Total Miles Sailed: 4229 nm;
Comments: I took a day off yesterday and did something cultural … attended a fund-raising banquet for the dance troupe O Tahiti E. Today, I have been making up for it by working into the engine room all day. I rebuilt the fuel polishing system, reinstalled the big pre-filter, cleaned the Racor water separator, and installed a replacement secondary fuel pump (my last one … so fingers crossed it lasts). I started by polishing the fuel in the day tank for an hour … which removed a little water. I then turned to the main tank. At first, it seemed to work, and I separated a large amount of water, After about an hour, it pulled large amounts of air. I cannot figure out where the air is coming from. It may be necessary to remove the flange with the pipes to see if one is loose. In any case, once the fuel filter on the engine was replaced, I started up the engine with the polished fuel and it seems to be running fine. It will go to 3600 rpm without a load, but still stops at 2000 with a load. I need to change the prop pitch and try again. I will try that tomorrow. I will also try to find the air leak in the line tomorrow.
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O Tahiti E

I was invited yesterday to attend a fund raiser for the Tahitian dance group “O Tahiti E”, which was created in 1986 by Marguerite Lai, who named the group after the original name for Tahiti (or Otahiti which was used on early navigational charts). It is one of the oldest dance troupes in French Polynesia.

I was invited to attend by Tehani, the person who is running Tahiti Crew, the organization I hired to help me with the bureaucracy of checking into and out of French Polynesia. Tehani asked me if I was going to do some sight seeing. I told her I was very busy working on the boat, and I asked her if there was one thing I should see while in Tahiti, what would she recommend. She asked what I was interested in and I replied “the culture.” Tehani arranged for me to ride with her aunt Corinne and mother Sarah (and two friends Cathy and Tania) to the event, which was held at the restaurant for the Gauguin Museum near the isthmus that connects Tahiti Nui (the larger, western section) and Tahiti Iti (the eastern peninsula).

I had been told I should were a colorful shirt. My wardrobe is limited, but I did manage to find a shirt with some palm trees, albeit in muted colors. Fortunately, Corinne presented me a beautiful lei of fresh flowers to make me more presentable.

During the 45 minute drive to the restaurant, Corinne, who has a PhD in the history of Tahiti, gave me a history lesson. The southwest corner of Tahiti Nui is relatively flat, and therefore the land is very valuable. They grew cotton there during the US Civil War and supplied the north. They grew sugarcane there and made rum during the US prohibition. Today it is mostly a golf course.

When arrived, we were greeted by the “chief “ if the dance troupe, none other than Marguerite Lai. Corinne and Sarah were friends with Marguerite, and Marguerite‘s sister, whom Sarah had worked with together with Tania. Marguerite’s sister joined us at our table.

A meal was served. The food reminded me of Chinese stir fry, with rice and chicken, pork, and beef dishes. The entertainment started with a group of men playing ukuleles and percussion instruments. We were encouraged to buy raffle tickets. I won a coupon for a dress and gave it to Sarah.

The dance troupe entered the stage as people finished eating. The traditional dances told stories where the words were retold symbolically in the dances moves themselves. The aparima is a dance from Tahiti (and the Cook Islands) where the mimicks (ʻapa) with the hands (rima) are central, and as such it is close to the hula or Tongan tau’olynga. It is usually a dance for groups, although the talents of individuals were also showcased during the performance. There are two types of aparima: the aparima hīmene (sung handdance) and the aparima vāvā (silent handdance), the latter being performed with music only, and no singing. The music is often played on the guitar or the Tahitian ukulele, and both were used during the performance.

At the end of the performance, the entire dance troupe posed for a photograph (Marguerite Lai is in the center of the group).

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Check-in May 16 2025; 2:26 UTC

Current Position: 17 33.957’S 149 37.068’W; Local Timezone: UTC-10; HDG: N/A; COG: N/A; SOG: N/A; Distance to Waypoint (Tahiti, Carrefour Bay): At Anchor; Total Miles Sailed: 4229 nm;
Comments: I spent the day mostly doing chores, although I did take a break at 8:00 to have a virtual Zoom “lunch” with my old colleagues. Checked the fuel in the day tank … there was some water and debris. Checked the fuel filter on the engine. It was clearly fouled. This may explain the problems I have been having with the engine. I am working on a plan to clean the fuel and make a proper repair of the fuel polishing system. In the meantime, I discovered I did not have a spare primary fuel filter. Thought I did. I took a taxi and visited two auto parts stores. The first one had a similar filter, but its diameter was too big to fit. I met the owner of the second store. He was very helpful. Although he did not have a replacement filter in the store I was at, he had it at his other store and would bring it Monday so I could pick it up. I also did some light grocery shopping and washed my clothes in a self-serve laundry. Tomorrow is a relaxation day … I am going to a fund raiser for a local dance group. Back to work on Sunday … probably polishing fuel.
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Check-in May 15, 2025; 23:47 UTC

Current Position: 17 33.957’S 149 37.068’W; Local Timezone: UTC-10; HDG: N/A; COG: N/A; SOG: N/A; Distance to Waypoint (Tahiti, Carrefour Bay): At Anchor; Total Miles Sailed: 4229 nm;
Comments: I have spent most of the day doing paperwork and doing chores. Most importantly, I have decided to head to Tonga next. I will be skipping the Cook Islands and Samoa because they require sailing to 13S. I have decided to stay at 16S until it is time to head for Thursday Island. After Tonga, I will visit Fiji and Vanuatu. Tomorrow (Friday) I will spend on the engine. I will check the fuel and filters, design the system that allows me to switch tanks, and go to the hardware store to try to get the parts. Most of Saturday will be spent at a festival. The other major projects I have include removing the mainsail and sewing it, work on the wind vane, repair the wind instruments, and provisioning (fuel, water, and food). I have about one week to do these things. The wind is blowing from the S today and the waves are coming from the SW, making for a rolling time at anchor. There will be a good chance of rain the middle of the week, so I need to get the sail done before then. I will need to clear out the salon area and set the sewing machine up on the table. If I can make good progress on the engine tomorrow, I will work on the sail Sunday. I will get water and fuel this week, but I won’t get food until I know the engine, sail, and wind instruments are ready. I may not get the wind instruments until next Thursday, so A week from tomorrow will be the earliest for the food.
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My Next Destination

The last document you obtain as part of the formalities of leaving a country is a Zarpe. In the context of maritime navigation, “Zarpe” refers to the official clearance document needed to leave a country by boat. It’s a Spanish term that translates to “set sail” and is commonly used in the boating community. In some countries, obtaining a Zarpe is a requirement for legally leaving, and it’s often a document that needs to be presented upon departure from a port. As important, it is a document that is expected at your destination. I have obtained only one so far, when I left Mexico. I described the ordeal in a blog post. I am about to leave French Polynesia and I am working on getting my second. To obtain the Zarpe, I have to know where I am going. So, all day I have been giving that issue some thought.

To keep to my schedule, which is necessary if I am going to be in position to transit the Indian Ocean this season, I have to sail about as many days as I am at anchor. However, the number of days I am at anchor can be out of my control. For example, I have a punch list of things I need to do before I leave Tahiti that incudes a half dozen boat repairs. However, another time sink are the formalities … the paperwork. For example, It takes a minimum of one day to check into Tahiti and a minimum of three days to check out. Which brings me back to the issue of my next destination.

I published a proposed route last year. To help me decide my route going forward, I explored two issues: 1) how long does it take to get there and 2) how complicated are the formalities. Starting with the the time it takes to get places, I calculated the distances between destinations I am considering and created a spreadsheet. Calculating the distance between two points on a sphere is not simple. For that, we turn to Haversines Formula, where the Earth is approximated as a sphere. I used Excel to do the calculation, first by entering the latitudes and longitudes for the locations (using conventional signs for N/S and E/W), converted the degrees to radians, then transposed the matrix:

Note I have chosen to use the radius of the earth in nautical miles (3444 nm). Next I created the equation for the Haversine Formula in cell A15:

=ACOS(SIN($D7)SIN(G$4)+COS($D7)COS(G$4)COS(G$5-$E7))$B$1

Finally, I copied the equation into a 7×7 matrix, which was then automatically populated with the distances between the seven locations under consideration:

Using these data, I could compute the distance I would sail for various routes. If I assume an average 4 kt speed, I can then estimate the time I would be sailing. If I assume I’d spend about a week at each location, then I could estimate the time on land for each of the routes. The sum of these two would represent the total time. The difference between the total times for each route would be the time saved.

The first thing you notice is there is a difference between the first two distances (about 2700 nm) and the next three (about 2500 nm). The reason is the Cook Islands and Samoa are about 13 degrees S and Tahiti, Tonga, Fiji, and Vanuatu are about 16 degrees S. Going N 3 degrees and then ack S again (6 degrees total, about 360 nm) costs half a week in sailing. Second, you can save as much as a month by not making extra stops.

Of course, time is not everything. These locations are paradises. But, I would rather spend three weeks at one paradise than rush from one to the next. After reading about the Cook Islands (and hearing from a friend who is there now), it sounds like the formalities are a hassle. Samoa also has a reputation for a lot of paperwork. On the other hand Tonga is supposed to be very inviting and I am very much attracted to the 170 islands that make up Tonga. Visibility is supposed to be 100′ in the water. I would certainly save 2 1/2 weeks going there directly, and probably more realistically a month. Further, Tahiti is a great place to resupply, whereas the Cook Islands and Samoa not so much so. Finally, there is the fatigue factor of getting the boat ready for a long passage and making that transition from being at anchor to being at sea. My decision is made … I will be heading to Tonga next.