Month: January 2023

While the anchor light worked before the mast was stepped, it stopped working shortly after the boat splashed. Not able to find the problem, the photodiode system I built was removed. Eventually, I discovered the problem was a bad wire splice at the top of the mast. For the sake of simplicity, I decided not to reinstall the photodiode box.

I tuned the standing rigging of the Aegir-Ran for the first time. I found a document published by the Seldén mast company a good resource. The Aegis-Ran has a fractional rig (a cutter) with a keel-stepped mast and a single in-line spreader. The horizontal rigging comprises of a forestay, a cutter stay, double backstays, and (Dyneema) running backstays. The running rigging comprises of a mainsheet, jib sheet, staysail sheet, preventer guy, outhaul, reefing lines, and a topping lift. The shrouds comprise of upper shrouds, cap shrouds, and forward and aft lower shrouds.

The tensions when I began were:

	Starboard (%)	Port (%)
Cap Shrouds (3/8″)	7	8
Forward Intermediate Shrouds (5/16″)	11	10
After Intermediate Shrouds (5/16″)	7	9
Backstays (5/16″)	11	11

I used Loos PT-2 and PT-3 tension gauges:

I started with the upper shrouds (which were flopping in the wind):

Once the upper shrouds were balanced (5 on a PT-2 scale), I followed the following procedure to tune the rest of the standing rigging:

1. Check mast rake and adjust with the forestay.
2. Tension the cap shrouds to 15%.
3. Roughly straighten the mast using the lower shrouds (checked by viewing up the luff groove).
4. Increased the cap shroud to 20%.
5. Tune the mast straight again using the lower shrouds.
6. Tensioned the backstays (not to exceed 20%). This increases the tension of the cap shrouds.
7. Check the cap shrouds to make sure they are less than 25%.

The tensions after tuning were:

	Starboard (%)	Port (%)
Cap Shrouds (3/8″)	16	18
Forward Intermediate Shrouds (5/16″)	16	14
After Intermediate Shrouds (5/16″)	12	11
Backstays (5/16″)	15	13

Since the tensions seem to be changing, the rigging was left overnight.

The fuel tank was essentially full when we purchased the boat. It seems that tank of fuel sat at least two and a half years on the hard and it has been more than a year since the purchase. So, the fuel has sat in the tank about four years. From the supplies left behind, it seems likely the fuel was treated with a stabilizer and a biocide, but we have no idea how clean the tank is. Not wanting to take a chance, we hired someone to polish the fuel. The device that was used recirculates the fuel through a course filter and then a fine one:

The take-up line was attached to a piece of PVC, which was used to “vacuum out” the bottom of the tank:

Then, the fuel was returned to the tank via a second hose that was inserted into the fuel port on the deck.

I have installed a SIMARINE Pico and ST107 Tank Module was installed to monitor the volume of the two 50 gallon water tank and the 75 gallon diesel fuel tank. The tank already has a resistive sending unit, but I installed two new sending units in the water tanks:

THE ST107 can monitor up to four tank levels and/or temperatures and up to three battery voltages. Right now, only the three tank sending units are connected:

Note that I have fallen in love with wire ferrules, which are attached to the wire using a special crimping tool. The ferrules make high-gauge (small diameter) wire much easier to work with and secures low gauge (large diameter) wire more securely to clamp-type junctions (like those used on Victron controllers). Eventually, I will add the ability to monitor the refrigerator temperature (because occasionally the compressor motor sticks).

Here is a view of the PICO display of the tank volumes:

The PICO display will eventually also be used to also monitor a second house batter bank that will be placed under the V-berth for the windlass and a bow thruster that will be installed this summer.