Current Position: 18 48.256’S 170 47.086’W; Local Timezone: UTC-10; SOG: 5.4 kt COG: 260; TWS: 18 kt; TWD: 67; Distance to Waypoint (Tonga, 262): 181; Total Miles Sailed: 5538 nm;
Comments: It is 16:00 and I am at 169W. The 20 kt wind that has allowed me to sail essential E using just my foresail is going to disappear by dawn and be replaced with 12-15 kt wind with gusts of 20. At the point I will have to raise the main and jibe to a broad reach towards Tonga. My plan is to continue E until I reach 170W, then jibe. It should take me 10-12h to do that, making it 2-4:00 in the morning. This should place me about 240 nm from Tonga in the morning and after sailing 4-5 kt/h during the day, about 180 nm from north side of the Tonga island Vava’u by the end of the day tomorrow, Thursday (Friday Tonga time). The wind will go to single digits by tomorrow night, so there is no chance I will make safe harbor by Friday (Saturday Tonga time). My plan is to cover that 180 nm over the Tonga weekend and position myself to come into the harbor first thing Monday morning (Sunday my current time). During the next two days, the wind will shift from the E to the NNE, allowing me to curve around on a bean reach for Vava’u, using all three sails in the light wind if necessary. The wind is going to shift to the SE and become strong on Saturday afternoon through Sunday morning (Sunday-Monday Tonga time) making it more difficult to heave to. So, if the opportunity presents itself, I will try to make safe harbor Saturday before dark (Sunday Tonga time) and stay on the boat until the quarantine procedure is complete. It is 17:30 and I just downloaded PW data. For the first time the AIS data includes the harbor at Vava’u. There are at least 16 vessels at anchor there and a dozen more are anchor in the island group. White Malkin is there and Little Wren SoloSail is on the N side of the island, presumably heaving to until daylight. Sunset should be at 18:45 (UTC-10, about one hour from now) and I will be at the waypoint PW recommends for jibing in about 40m. The advantage of jibing now is I can raise the mainsail in the light and trim the sails before it gets dark. The advantage of waiting is sailing with the foresail along is generally trouble-free, although I continue to loose latitude (and will loose more as the wind shifts to the E). I believe I will lift the main before dark just because I’ll probably have at least 45m of light to sort things out if there is a problem. I will start by furling in half of the Yankee and I will start with two reefs in the main because I still expect 25 kt gusts tonight and sustained winds of 20. Further, I will be exposing more of the sails in the broad reach. I needed every minute of light to hoist the main and tune the wind vane. I had trouble in the 25 kt hoisting the main because the top baton kept getting hung up on the lazy jack. I eventually dropped the lazy jack and sail pack to get the mai up, then put everything back together again. I finished just as it got dark and a squall hit. The boat is doing almost 6 kt in 25 kt wind with about half the Yankee and two reefs in the main. The wind direction is 85 and I am in an extreme board reach, almost a run. I am about 45 nm from Niue. I believe I will average about 5.5 kt, so should be there in about 8h, which would be 3:00. There is perhaps a 50:50 chance I am going to have to jibe before I get there, and I don’t want to take any chances in the dark. Note that even after all the gymnastics to get the main up, I am exactly on the course recommended by PW, which predicts I will reach Niue at 9:00, much later than I likely will. I will set alarms and stay awake the couple of hours that will be necessary to clear Niue. Just as I was typing this, a squall hit with 30 kt winds, causing the boat to round up a bit towards the island. I am going to have to be cautious. I note this starboard tack is much more comfortable than the port tack was, I think because of the direction of the swell. It was hitting me broadside before and it seems to be following seas now. The TWD is shifting as I approach Niue. At 00:15 it is 76 and I am 16 nm away. This may allow me to pass the island without jibing, but it will be very close. The problem is, while the wind vane is doing a very good job, as mentioned before, I am getting periodic gusts of 25-30 kt that are causing the boat to round up. I am now staying awake to hand steer through those gusts. I am down below, but the sounds of the wind/water and the heeling signal when I need to take control. Niue is about 8 nm wide and normally when you approach the windward side of an island, particularly one with some elevation, the surface wind direction will change as the wind is parted around the island. I am looking for that. It is 1:00 in the UTC-10 timezone and my phone just switched to midnight (UTC-11). Interestingly, the time on PW has also switched to UTC-11. It is 1:30 and it has become clear that it will not be necessary to jibe. It would appear that my closest approach will be about 5 nm and it looks like I will pass the island 4h ahead of the schedule that was downloaded at 17:00 yesterday. The town of Alofi is on the leeward (opposite) side of the island, so it is not surprising that I do not see any lights. There are roads on this side of the island, but I do not believe there are any concentrations of population. At 3:00, I passed the closest point to Niue, about 5 nm. Once past, I downloaded a new GRIB, extended AIS data, and a weather routing plan. I have managed to shave an entire day off of the passage. The plan shows an arrival to the N side of the island about 22:00 on Saturday Tonga time. I will plan on navigating the complicated channel to anchorage on Sunday morning. It is 4:30 (UTC-10), I am clear of Niue, wind is blowing at 20 kt, I am traveling at 5 kt, and there is no AIS traffic, so I am going to sleep. I have 60h to make the 230 nm to the N side of Vava’u, the 15 nm or so around to the channel on the E side, and navigate the convoluted channel to the anchorage. There is no rush, but when I wake up I am going to deploy more sail to take advantage of the 12-15 kt wind I will have the next 48h. I woke at 7:30 UTC-10. This will be the last check-in at UTC-10. Beginning 2:00 UTC, after I do this check-in, I will switch to UTC+23 (as if I had crossed the dateline). In other words, it is Thursday 7:30 UTC-10, but Friday 6:30 UTC+23. I am about 15 nm E and downwind of Niue. I woke up and the boat was going 3.5 kt in 12 kt of wind. To get out of the shadow, I unfurled most of the Yankee and adjust the course to a more acute wind angle (145). The TWD was 70. This put me on a course of 285 and gave me a boat speed of 4.9 kt. Sunrise was at 7:48. The wind is supposed to back from 80 to 68 by mid morning, at which time I will adjust the course closer to the waypoint (which is currently 266). The sky this morning is largely without clouds, except on the horizons, and the waves are substantially less high, perhaps affected by Niue. At 8:30 I shook out the second reef. I was making about 5 kt in 16 kt wind. I rigged a preventer and put out a fishing line.in celebration of passing and Niue and reaching waters that were not as angry, I cooked a large breakfast of eggs, potatoes, onions and prosciutto. At 9:30 I seemed to be out of the island’s shadow and was making 5.2 kt on a course of 285. As predicted, the wind start to back to 68 about 10:30. The nice thing (sometimes) about the wind vane is it steers relative to the wind. I did not need to make any adjustments. The boat automatically steered closer to the waypoint. By 11:00, I was out of the “wave shadow” of Niue and the big swell was back. I was really glad I had fixed the meal and cleaned up before the rocking returned. The wind became variable in speed and direction, making it difficult to trim sails and run a steady course. The boat bounced between a course of about 275 at 5 kt and 300 at 6 kt. I just went with the flow and figured it would sort itself out soon enough. About noon, I got a strike on the fishing line. I was a 7’ billfish. Having lost my gaff and not having any interest in bringing a billfish aboard by the gills, I ran a noose of rope down the fishing line and it naturally stopped at the tail. After cinching the loop, I dragged the fish aboard tail-first. The course recommended by PW has been very accurate today. Including changed in wind direction and strength. Since Niue, I have basically been curving around to the E as the wind direction changes. However, the forecast has changed every time I new GRIF has been issued with respect to were the dead air is going to be and when, so basically I cannot plan for that. Instead I am keeping the GRIFs up-to-date and downloading frequent weather plans. The distance sailed on to Tonga in the last 24 h was 290-181=139 nm (a remarkably good day).
Comments: It is 16:00 and I am at 169W. The 20 kt wind that has allowed me to sail essential E using just my foresail is going to disappear by dawn and be replaced with 12-15 kt wind with gusts of 20. At the point I will have to raise the main and jibe to a broad reach towards Tonga. My plan is to continue E until I reach 170W, then jibe. It should take me 10-12h to do that, making it 2-4:00 in the morning. This should place me about 240 nm from Tonga in the morning and after sailing 4-5 kt/h during the day, about 180 nm from north side of the Tonga island Vava’u by the end of the day tomorrow, Thursday (Friday Tonga time). The wind will go to single digits by tomorrow night, so there is no chance I will make safe harbor by Friday (Saturday Tonga time). My plan is to cover that 180 nm over the Tonga weekend and position myself to come into the harbor first thing Monday morning (Sunday my current time). During the next two days, the wind will shift from the E to the NNE, allowing me to curve around on a bean reach for Vava’u, using all three sails in the light wind if necessary. The wind is going to shift to the SE and become strong on Saturday afternoon through Sunday morning (Sunday-Monday Tonga time) making it more difficult to heave to. So, if the opportunity presents itself, I will try to make safe harbor Saturday before dark (Sunday Tonga time) and stay on the boat until the quarantine procedure is complete. It is 17:30 and I just downloaded PW data. For the first time the AIS data includes the harbor at Vava’u. There are at least 16 vessels at anchor there and a dozen more are anchor in the island group. White Malkin is there and Little Wren SoloSail is on the N side of the island, presumably heaving to until daylight. Sunset should be at 18:45 (UTC-10, about one hour from now) and I will be at the waypoint PW recommends for jibing in about 40m. The advantage of jibing now is I can raise the mainsail in the light and trim the sails before it gets dark. The advantage of waiting is sailing with the foresail along is generally trouble-free, although I continue to loose latitude (and will loose more as the wind shifts to the E). I believe I will lift the main before dark just because I’ll probably have at least 45m of light to sort things out if there is a problem. I will start by furling in half of the Yankee and I will start with two reefs in the main because I still expect 25 kt gusts tonight and sustained winds of 20. Further, I will be exposing more of the sails in the broad reach. I needed every minute of light to hoist the main and tune the wind vane. I had trouble in the 25 kt hoisting the main because the top baton kept getting hung up on the lazy jack. I eventually dropped the lazy jack and sail pack to get the mai up, then put everything back together again. I finished just as it got dark and a squall hit. The boat is doing almost 6 kt in 25 kt wind with about half the Yankee and two reefs in the main. The wind direction is 85 and I am in an extreme board reach, almost a run. I am about 45 nm from Niue. I believe I will average about 5.5 kt, so should be there in about 8h, which would be 3:00. There is perhaps a 50:50 chance I am going to have to jibe before I get there, and I don’t want to take any chances in the dark. Note that even after all the gymnastics to get the main up, I am exactly on the course recommended by PW, which predicts I will reach Niue at 9:00, much later than I likely will. I will set alarms and stay awake the couple of hours that will be necessary to clear Niue. Just as I was typing this, a squall hit with 30 kt winds, causing the boat to round up a bit towards the island. I am going to have to be cautious. I note this starboard tack is much more comfortable than the port tack was, I think because of the direction of the swell. It was hitting me broadside before and it seems to be following seas now. The TWD is shifting as I approach Niue. At 00:15 it is 76 and I am 16 nm away. This may allow me to pass the island without jibing, but it will be very close. The problem is, while the wind vane is doing a very good job, as mentioned before, I am getting periodic gusts of 25-30 kt that are causing the boat to round up. I am now staying awake to hand steer through those gusts. I am down below, but the sounds of the wind/water and the heeling signal when I need to take control. Niue is about 8 nm wide and normally when you approach the windward side of an island, particularly one with some elevation, the surface wind direction will change as the wind is parted around the island. I am looking for that. It is 1:00 in the UTC-10 timezone and my phone just switched to midnight (UTC-11). Interestingly, the time on PW has also switched to UTC-11. It is 1:30 and it has become clear that it will not be necessary to jibe. It would appear that my closest approach will be about 5 nm and it looks like I will pass the island 4h ahead of the schedule that was downloaded at 17:00 yesterday. The town of Alofi is on the leeward (opposite) side of the island, so it is not surprising that I do not see any lights. There are roads on this side of the island, but I do not believe there are any concentrations of population. At 3:00, I passed the closest point to Niue, about 5 nm. Once past, I downloaded a new GRIB, extended AIS data, and a weather routing plan. I have managed to shave an entire day off of the passage. The plan shows an arrival to the N side of the island about 22:00 on Saturday Tonga time. I will plan on navigating the complicated channel to anchorage on Sunday morning. It is 4:30 (UTC-10), I am clear of Niue, wind is blowing at 20 kt, I am traveling at 5 kt, and there is no AIS traffic, so I am going to sleep. I have 60h to make the 230 nm to the N side of Vava’u, the 15 nm or so around to the channel on the E side, and navigate the convoluted channel to the anchorage. There is no rush, but when I wake up I am going to deploy more sail to take advantage of the 12-15 kt wind I will have the next 48h. I woke at 7:30 UTC-10. This will be the last check-in at UTC-10. Beginning 2:00 UTC, after I do this check-in, I will switch to UTC+23 (as if I had crossed the dateline). In other words, it is Thursday 7:30 UTC-10, but Friday 6:30 UTC+23. I am about 15 nm E and downwind of Niue. I woke up and the boat was going 3.5 kt in 12 kt of wind. To get out of the shadow, I unfurled most of the Yankee and adjust the course to a more acute wind angle (145). The TWD was 70. This put me on a course of 285 and gave me a boat speed of 4.9 kt. Sunrise was at 7:48. The wind is supposed to back from 80 to 68 by mid morning, at which time I will adjust the course closer to the waypoint (which is currently 266). The sky this morning is largely without clouds, except on the horizons, and the waves are substantially less high, perhaps affected by Niue. At 8:30 I shook out the second reef. I was making about 5 kt in 16 kt wind. I rigged a preventer and put out a fishing line.in celebration of passing and Niue and reaching waters that were not as angry, I cooked a large breakfast of eggs, potatoes, onions and prosciutto. At 9:30 I seemed to be out of the island’s shadow and was making 5.2 kt on a course of 285. As predicted, the wind start to back to 68 about 10:30. The nice thing (sometimes) about the wind vane is it steers relative to the wind. I did not need to make any adjustments. The boat automatically steered closer to the waypoint. By 11:00, I was out of the “wave shadow” of Niue and the big swell was back. I was really glad I had fixed the meal and cleaned up before the rocking returned. The wind became variable in speed and direction, making it difficult to trim sails and run a steady course. The boat bounced between a course of about 275 at 5 kt and 300 at 6 kt. I just went with the flow and figured it would sort itself out soon enough. About noon, I got a strike on the fishing line. I was a 7’ billfish. Having lost my gaff and not having any interest in bringing a billfish aboard by the gills, I ran a noose of rope down the fishing line and it naturally stopped at the tail. After cinching the loop, I dragged the fish aboard tail-first. The course recommended by PW has been very accurate today. Including changed in wind direction and strength. Since Niue, I have basically been curving around to the E as the wind direction changes. However, the forecast has changed every time I new GRIF has been issued with respect to were the dead air is going to be and when, so basically I cannot plan for that. Instead I am keeping the GRIFs up-to-date and downloading frequent weather plans. The distance sailed on to Tonga in the last 24 h was 290-181=139 nm (a remarkably good day).