The boat was finally ready for a test run to learn more about the leak in the engine’s coolant system. We motored just outside the Bahia, tested the instruments, raised the sails, and when motoring back took some time to practice motoring skills using a mooring buoy.
Notably, we learned the boat speed was not being reported, the halyard for the mainsail needs to have its cable shortened, and the coolant leak is substantial, perhaps leaking a quart. The problem with the halyard prevented us from sailing, which was a moot point as there was no wind (one of the reasons we chose the day to go out). We also discovered the prop walk forces the bow to the starboard when backing out of the slip (will need to figure out a way to control that) and it is almost impossible to turn the stern to the starboard while in reverse.
We completed a Sailrite Sail Pack Kit.this is the largest project we have sewed date. Fortunately, the roof of the rental was large enough to stage the project.
Having a portable sewing machine was particularly helpful during the final stages of completing the project, for example, sewing the batten pockets closed.
The sail pack was installed and held up with a lazy jack system.
The sail pack was constructed according to the directions provided by Sailrite with the exception that the PVC battens were replaced with fiberglass tubes. The challenge in using fiberglass is shipping, This problem was overcome by using the Max-Gain System (MGS). The MDS 3/4″ round tubing is 93″ long and has an i.d. of 1/2″. The tubing is connected using solid 1/2″ fiberglass rod using J-B Weld.
The lazy jack was purchased from Nautos and comprises of blocks and 12-strand polyester rope. After installing the system, we decided it will likely be temporary, and it will eventually be replaced with low-friction rings and Dyneema. After using/tuning the existing lazy jack system for awhile, it will be disassembled and used as a template for the Dyneema system.
Aegir-Ran came with a vintage Ritchie compass that was in need of rebuilding. The plexiglass globe was cracking, the paint was flaking off, the 12V cigarette-lighter plug was broken, the wire was frayed, and there was some corrosion. It was surprisingly easy to disassemble the compass. After loosening with PB Blaster, two screws removed the light hood, two screws on the bezel separated the compass from the custom holder, six screws removed the bezel, and a single screw clamped on the base.
The serial number on the label on the base identified the compass model as a 5″ Ritchie Globemaster from the early 1970s. Fortunately, parts for this compass are still available. The incandescent light bulbs are no longer manufactured, but LED equivalents are. I was able to order a new globe, a rebuild kit (that includes new o-rings and compass fluid), and a new red LED light harness from the Viking Compass Company for $172 (including tax and shipping). The exact same Marine Grade Locking Cigarette Lighter Plug was also available for $12.
After sanding and repainting with crinkle-textured Rust-Oleum paint, reassembly was straight-forward. However, refilling the fluid can be a challenge. This is the set-up I used. The compass was positioned so the filling hole was higher than the rest of the compass, a syringe without the plunger was used as a funnel, and the odorless mineral oil was added until the globe was mostly full. The challenge is removing the last bubble of air. The is achieved by positioning the bubble at the filling port and the by carefully pressing on the diaphragm at the bottom of the compass to force the air out. It helps to push the o-ring to the top of the screw before plugging the filling port.
The compass retails for $850 (without the mount and lighting), but I was able rebuild it for $200 and it looks like-new.
I installed the steel slugs for the new Tide Marine SailTrack system by cutting the old plastic ones off the mainsail. The process was simple and only took about 20 minutes.
After six months of work, seven days a week, the refit of my Alajuela 38 is complete, and the boat splashed. The work that remains is relatively minor and can be completed on the water.
I ordered a new LED anchor light that is supposed to turn on automatically at night. Imagine my disappointment when I installed the light (after an eleven-hour round-trip to Tucson to pick it up) to learn that it emitted RED light! The company I ordered it from apologized and sent a replacement. After another trip to Tucson to pick it up, imagine my continued disappointment to learn that the new light has a different mount AND it does not have the automatic on/off feature. A call to the company confirmed that the lamp they sent me is all that they have. Since I am restepping the mast in a couple of days, I did not have time to arrange for a new light, but I really wanted the automatic on/off feature. So … I ordered a small circuit board from Amazon (with one-day service) that is designed to turn automobile headlights on automatically at night. Naturally, the circuit board came with ZERO instructions. Here I am doing a quick test of the circuit using my car battery to confirm that it works.
The white wire in the lower left had the photodiode at the end (covered with black electrical tape). A few tests demonstrated the relay on the board can either be configured normally on or off. The first time I wired it backwards (the anchor light was on during the day), but switching a couple of wires fixed the problem. Since I imagine this add-on would be of interest to other sailors, I will post the details later.
For weeks ago I discovered one of the tangs on the spreader had nearly pulled out. I ha a stainless steel cap made, which was installed today. Note I had a bracket welded on for a small block the starboard side (for courtesy flags) and the port side (for a radar reflector).
