Alajuela 38
On October 24, almost seven months after first going on the hard with a dead engine, Aegir-Ran splashed with a new Beta 38 engine.
The next morning, a beautiful sunrise was observed. This certainly beats the dusty work yard.
I have been working on Aegir-Ran on the hard for the past two months. Everyone in the work yard have been complaining about how much hotter and more humid that normal, and how the summer weather is lasting longer than normal. NPR recently published a story that discussed the relationship between the weather and storms. In the story there was a chart that confirmed my suspicions that the water is warmer than normal.
Warm water fuels hurricanes and the unusually warm temperatures of 2024 have no doubt contributed to conditions that allowed Hurricane Beryl formed in June (the most powerful storm ever recorded so early in the season) and why Helene and Milton (both Category 4 storms) formed in the Gulf of Mexico within two weeks of one another in September.
We’re currently experiencing a strong El Niño that’s been creating some wild weather for the past few months. One of reasons I have been concerned is the first leg of my planned circumnavigation, across the South Pacific, may be impacted. The Humboldt Current off the west coast of South America can change direction, the Trade Winds become less reliable. and the ITCZ can shift during El Niño. However, it’s looking increasingly likely that the climate cycle will transition back over to a La Niña in the next six months. In any case, I am hedging my bets and will make my way to Costa Rica in December, where I will make a decision to head west to the Marquessa or South to Easter Island.
Sea-surface temperature anomalies are shown in the area of the eastern Pacific Ocean where a very strong El Niño is present on Wednesday, February 7, 2024. Darker oranges represent warmer than normal conditions while blues represent cooler than normal conditions. These ocean temperatures help determine the strength of El Niño. Source.
For the past three night, I have been waken at 3-4 AM by the sound of fish running into the hull. I went on deck and saw schools of small fish being chased by dolphins. The dolphins had learned to chase the fish into the boat to render them stunned. Last night one of the fish jumped into the dinghy so I could identify it.
The species is Longfin Halfbeak (Hemiramphus saltator), which is characterized by its red-colored beak.
I took a hike above Playa el Burro in Bahia de Concepcioñ. The bay is massive and includes many islands.
I am currently anchored off of Playa el Burro. Aegir-Ran is the furthest boat in this frame.
The hike was vigorous and although it is January, was nonetheless hot. The trail, if you want to call it that, initially follows a dry creek bed that is lined with ancient Amerindian petroglyphs.
While anchored in Bahia San Padro and waiting for a weather window to head south, I noticed a rock arch in the hills above the bay (circled in red).
Asking the locals, I am told it is called “Big Trunk Elephant” (“Elefante de Trompa Grande”). It took about two hours to hike to the arch, first through washes to the base and then bushwhacking to the arch itself. Once there, I discovered the rock to be loose and dangerous to climb. Also, it appeared that rock climbing would be needed to actually get to the hole. Perhaps the backside would be more accessible.
