Alajuela 38
I installed the masthead light with the circuitboard today. The photodiode was epoxied into the top of the water-tight box containing the electronics. My neighbors in the yard were impressed and suggested I should market the device.
I ordered a new LED anchor light that is supposed to turn on automatically at night. Imagine my disappointment when I installed the light (after an eleven-hour round-trip to Tucson to pick it up) to learn that it emitted RED light! The company I ordered it from apologized and sent a replacement. After another trip to Tucson to pick it up, imagine my continued disappointment to learn that the new light has a different mount AND it does not have the automatic on/off feature. A call to the company confirmed that the lamp they sent me is all that they have. Since I am restepping the mast in a couple of days, I did not have time to arrange for a new light, but I really wanted the automatic on/off feature. So … I ordered a small circuit board from Amazon (with one-day service) that is designed to turn automobile headlights on automatically at night. Naturally, the circuit board came with ZERO instructions. Here I am doing a quick test of the circuit using my car battery to confirm that it works.
The white wire in the lower left had the photodiode at the end (covered with black electrical tape). A few tests demonstrated the relay on the board can either be configured normally on or off. The first time I wired it backwards (the anchor light was on during the day), but switching a couple of wires fixed the problem. Since I imagine this add-on would be of interest to other sailors, I will post the details later.
For weeks ago I discovered one of the tangs on the spreader had nearly pulled out. I ha a stainless steel cap made, which was installed today. Note I had a bracket welded on for a small block the starboard side (for courtesy flags) and the port side (for a radar reflector).
I also sewed on leather boots:
I know this may seem trivial … but the tiller was installed this morning. It has been six months since the tiller/rudder was complete. Somehow, this seems momentous. I am very pleased with the esthetics of the rudder rebuild … so much better than the ugly stainless cap that was about to be put on by the previous owner.
The instrument panels were installed in the cockpit today. Enough room was left to the left to install the Standard Horizon SSM-70H 2.5″ Wired Remote Access Microphone (RAM4).
All of the instruments in the cockpit have been replaced except for the Westerbeke Diesel engine instrument panel. The panel looked pretty weathers. However, it was possible to buy spare parts for the panel, including the bezel, Plexiglass window, and rubber covers for the buttons. The challenge was to move the instruments to the new bezel. There were perhaps 50 wire connections. A label-maker was used to label all of the terminals and the wires.
The final result was a new-looking panel.
Note a new Westerbeke Admiral Instrument Panel costs $750, but the cost for replacing the bezel, window, button covers and a new ignition with was about $100.
I replaced the rusty vinyl-coated steel cable lifelines today with 1/4″ Dyneema using Johnson Marine fittings:
Taper the tail:
Bury the tail:
Two different Brummel splices are used. Fittings that are too large to fit through lock-splice are put on first using Brummel lock splice where both ends free. For the smaller fitting that can pass through the rope, a Brummel lock place is used for one end attached. The additional step in the later splice re-inverts the rope after passing the fitting through the tail.
In prepping the mast for painting,
I discovered a tang for one of the upper spreader stays has partially pulled out and was bent.
There is come corrosion of the aluminum, so a significant repair/reenforcement is called for. I have designed a stainless steel cap and Rafael is manufacturing it for me.
After a half-dozen workers labored for almost two days, Aegir-Ran’s mast was finally unstepped.
The problem was the previous owner has fiberglassed the base of the mast, presumably to block water (which make no sense because the mast is open at the top). While some people advised that we cut off an inch from the bottom of the mast to free is, we instead removed the bracket for the boom vang, moved the Spartite plug up the mast and away from the deck, so enough room was created between the mast and the deck so the mast could be rocked back and forth to free it.
It is noteworthy that the initial effort to remove the mast put so much pressure on the crane that one of the cables broke (and had to be held in place by a Cat tractor while the mast was removed.
The Aegis-Ran sports a Westerbeke 3 cyl. 35 hp. Model# 35C diesel engine that operates 2500-3000 RPM while cruising. Consulting the literature for this engine:
And, considering the tankage of 75 gal, assuming 2750 RPM (fuel consumption is about 0.8 gal/h), I calculate a range of:
1 h/0.8 gal x 75 gal = 94 h; 94 h x 5 NM/h = 470 NM
However, a friend who has an Alajuela 38 said he had a range of 600 NM while motoring down the West Coast, albeit with a different engine. Assuming, I had 50 gal of storage in Jerry cans, I estimate the range of the boat will be:
1 h/0.8 gal x 125 gal x 5 NM/h = 780 NM (or perhaps closer to 1000 NM)
Once the boat splashes, I will begin keeping an accurate fuel log.
Update: I recently emptied the main fuel tank and measured the volume to be 60 gallons (not 75 as per specs). Together with the 15 gallon day tank that was recently installed, this gives a total capacity of 75 gallons, so the calculation above remains valid. However, I have decided to keep 25 gallons on the deck or in the lazarettes.
1 h/0.8 gal x 100 gal x 5 NM/h = 625 NM (or perhaps closer to 750 NM)
Now that I have fuel level sensors and a fuel monitoring system on the NEMA 2000 network, I will start keeping closer track of actual fuel usage.