I have spent the better part of the past two days in the office of the Capitania de Puerto Regional de Guaymas trying to sort out the paperwork to leave Mexico. It turns out, that even though Guaymas is considered to be a “seaport” (the only other one in the Sea of Cortez being at La Paz), the authorities there are unaccustomed to preparing a Zarpe (or Despacho as it is called in Mexico) for anything but large container ships. Furthermore, those ships use local agents, so the authorities are unaccustomed to dealing with individuals. It seems that cruisers simply never use Guaymas as their last port. Most cruisers sail to Mazalan or Puerto Vallarta before leaving Mexico. And, I suspect most cruisers don’t properly check out of Mexico. That is probably not a problem if you’re a US-flagged boat returning to the US, but it is a problem for someone who plans to sail to another county, where the Zarpe is likely to be required.
The first stop is at the building for the Capitain de Puerta (labeled “1” on this map):
I was met by the Capitain, who spoke little English, but I explained … Necisito un Zarpe para mi barco.” He understood my poor Spanish and put me in touch with his understudy, who spoke enough English that between us we got the job done. My documentation was examined and I was told I would need additional documentation (the letters, etc.), so I returned to the marina to try to get what I needed. The staff were completely unfa\miliar with the process, but eventually the lawyers got involved, and they communicated directly with the port authorities to get them what they needed.
I was under pressure to complete the process by Friday, March 8, because the following Sunday I was to return my car to the US, and without a car, it would have been difficult to travel back and forth to Guaymas (about 30 minutes away). Furthermore, I had arranged for a ride to return that Tuesday, the same day I was expected to remove the boat from nthe slip I was renting.
The marina provided the the letters at 11:30 AM on Friday. The office of the Capitain de Puertan is only open 8:30 AM – 2:00 PM M-F. I arrived at the office at noon and waited for about half an hour before I could be seen. After I quick examination of my documentation, I was taken to the Secretaria de Marina (labeled “2” on the map):
The following documents were required:
- My FMM form
- The boat’s TIP
- A document showing where the vessel is flagged (I used the USCG National Vessel Documentation Center “Certificate of Documentation”).
- A crew list
- A letter from the marina stating I did not owe them anything
- A letter from the marina stating I had been living there on my boat (so I didn’t have to use an agent)
- A list of all the safety equipment onboard
- Documentation that I am qualified (I used ASA certifications)
- A copy of my passport
- My itinerary (specifically, the next port)
With the exception of the two letters, they wanted copies (not originals) of these documents. Since only the owner of the marina and her lawyer have permission to sign anything on behalf of the marina, the marina lawyers drafted the letters, which took an extra day. After they collected the documents, I was provided a receipt:
I had to fill out two forms, which were then entered into the computer by the staff. This took nearly an hour. I was now 1:30. I was give a form to take to the bank about two blocks away, where I paid 401 pesos. I returned by 2:00. The Secretaria de Marina was only open until 2:30 PM, and I was told I would have to return the following week for the Zarpe. I explained my situation, and they told me to wait. About 3:30 PM, the staff produced the document, and just like that, I was official.
