In keeping with traditions, our vessel was formally “denamed” today (in preparation for the renaming ceremony). Once every reference to the old name had been removed , we prepare an “ingot” with the old name and invoked the name of the ruler of the deep as follows:
“Oh mighty and great ruler of the seas and oceans, to whom all ships and we who venture upon your vast domain are required to pay homage, implore you in your graciousness to expunge for all time from your records and recollection the name “Stormy” which has ceased to be an entity in your kingdom. As proof thereof, we submit this ingot bearing her name to be corrupted through your powers and forever be purged from the sea.”
The boat was finally ready for a test run to learn more about the leak in the engine’s coolant system. We motored just outside the Bahia, tested the instruments, raised the sails, and when motoring back took some time to practice motoring skills using a mooring buoy.
Notably, we learned the boat speed was not being reported, the halyard for the mainsail needs to have its cable shortened, and the coolant leak is substantial, perhaps leaking a quart. The problem with the halyard prevented us from sailing, which was a moot point as there was no wind (one of the reasons we chose the day to go out). We also discovered the prop walk forces the bow to the starboard when backing out of the slip (will need to figure out a way to control that) and it is almost impossible to turn the stern to the starboard while in reverse.
We completed a Sailrite Sail Pack Kit.this is the largest project we have sewed date. Fortunately, the roof of the rental was large enough to stage the project.
Having a portable sewing machine was particularly helpful during the final stages of completing the project, for example, sewing the batten pockets closed.
The sail pack was installed and held up with a lazy jack system.
The sail pack was constructed according to the directions provided by Sailrite with the exception that the PVC battens were replaced with fiberglass tubes. The challenge in using fiberglass is shipping, This problem was overcome by using the Max-Gain System (MGS). The MDS 3/4″ round tubing is 93″ long and has an i.d. of 1/2″. The tubing is connected using solid 1/2″ fiberglass rod using J-B Weld.
The lazy jack was purchased from Nautos and comprises of blocks and 12-strand polyester rope. After installing the system, we decided it will likely be temporary, and it will eventually be replaced with low-friction rings and Dyneema. After using/tuning the existing lazy jack system for awhile, it will be disassembled and used as a template for the Dyneema system.
To integrate the chart plotter, radar, and autopilot, an electronic compass needed to be installed. I chose a Precision-9. In addition to reporting direction, the device also reports pitch and roll, and so it should be mounted at the center of gravity in the boat, preferably at the waterline. After exploring possibilities, we decided on mounting the compass on the mast below deck. The problem was the mount was designed for a flat surface. We started by tracing the contour of the mast where we wanted to mount the device.
We then used a table saw to cut the mount out of a block of wood.
Note the contour is rough-cut with the table saw. That surface was filled with epoxy (combined with an epoxy filler), and it was sanded and painted with enamel (on the right, the block on the left is a spacer for the wind instruments).
The adapter was used in combination with the compass mount to install the compass on the mast.
Aegir-Ran came with a vintage Ritchie compass that was in need of rebuilding. The plexiglass globe was cracking, the paint was flaking off, the 12V cigarette-lighter plug was broken, the wire was frayed, and there was some corrosion. It was surprisingly easy to disassemble the compass. After loosening with PB Blaster, two screws removed the light hood, two screws on the bezel separated the compass from the custom holder, six screws removed the bezel, and a single screw clamped on the base.
The serial number on the label on the base identified the compass model as a 5″ Ritchie Globemaster from the early 1970s. Fortunately, parts for this compass are still available. The incandescent light bulbs are no longer manufactured, but LED equivalents are. I was able to order a new globe, a rebuild kit (that includes new o-rings and compass fluid), and a new red LED light harness from the Viking Compass Company for $172 (including tax and shipping). The exact same Marine Grade Locking Cigarette Lighter Plug was also available for $12.
After sanding and repainting with crinkle-textured Rust-Oleum paint, reassembly was straight-forward. However, refilling the fluid can be a challenge. This is the set-up I used. The compass was positioned so the filling hole was higher than the rest of the compass, a syringe without the plunger was used as a funnel, and the odorless mineral oil was added until the globe was mostly full. The challenge is removing the last bubble of air. The is achieved by positioning the bubble at the filling port and the by carefully pressing on the diaphragm at the bottom of the compass to force the air out. It helps to push the o-ring to the top of the screw before plugging the filling port.
The compass retails for $850 (without the mount and lighting), but I was able rebuild it for $200 and it looks like-new.
